Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
GPS: 34.02193, -116.17918
FA: Tony Sartin and Bob Gaines, January, 2021
Page Views: 719 total · 14/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Jan 17, 2022
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is a variation start and direct finish to Are You Experienced?

Start 30 feet down and left from Are You Experienced?

Climb past a bolt, then move right and climb a right-leaning thin crack (10a), then up a short vertical crack. Move right at a bolt (5.9) onto a slab, then join Are You Experienced? at a small overhang. 

Climb over the overhang (5.10b/c) then clip a bolt at the base of a 30-foot, slightly overhanging hand and fist crack. This bolt was placed by Richard Harrison on the first ascent of Are You Experienced? in 1973 (subsequently replaced with a 3/8-inch bolt many years ago), as Richard presumably didn't trust his rack of hexes to get solid placements in the slightly flaring crack.

Jam and lieback the crack (burly 5.10c), then, where the crack veers left and turns low-angle, step right and climb a slab with 3 bolts (10a), following a thin orange vertical dike, up to a 2-bolt anchor. Just above the last bolt you can place a .3 to .75-inch camming device before reaching the anchor.

Protection Suggest change

Stoppers: doubles # 4-5, plus one large (#11 or 12).

Cams: Double set from .3 to 3 inches (up to #3 Camalots)

6 bolts, 2-bolt anchor

You can lower off with a 60 meter rope, but barely. Tie a knot in the end of your rope!

Photos

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