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Routes in Lost Horse Wall - Left Side

Are You Experienced T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Hesitation Blues T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just Another Crack from LA T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
LA Woman S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Terror in de Skies T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, Frank Bentwood, Kelly Vaught, and Chris Baumann, January 2014
Page Views: 1,906 total, 40/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Jan 26, 2014
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Located on the Lost Horse Wall, center section, directly behind a large pinyon pine tree.

Start just left of Just Another Crack from LA and climb straight up the face past 11 bolts to a 2-bolt lower-off anchor (90 feet).

This is a fun, well-protected sport route with a variety of great moves. Sustained for its entire length in the 5.9/5.10- range. The hard to read crux at the 9th bolt makes for a tough on-sight. High on the fun factor- four out of five stars.

You can get an optional 4-inch CD (#4 camalot) in the crack below the 3rd bolt to make it super-duper well-protected.

The original (trad) start is just left, moving right (5.9, 3-inch CD) at a huge, down-pointing flake.

Protection

11 bolts, 2-bolt lower-off anchor (90 feet)
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
 
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
 
Dang...only 4.383 stars out of 5, not even 4.4 for rock quality or movement? Nov 20, 2017
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.11a
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.11a
Updated Comment... This route has been up for a few seasons and thought it would get tons of traffic but remarkable it seems to remain hidden in plain sight. The bottom section seems much harder than I recall from when it first went up... with several 5.10 moves and thankfully plentiful bolt placements. The crux remains tough, even with prior knowledge there were lots of step-downs and resets before I could make it happen. The route is a real gem and proud lead as it's no gimme. Nov 19, 2017
mhagny
  5.10d
mhagny  
  5.10d
If Middle S-Crack is .11a, this route must be 5.9, no? Feb 22, 2017
great route! highly recommend as a nice nab on the way back to the car. crux moves are super interesting and fun. Thanks for another great route Bob! Dec 30, 2016
C Miller   CA  
Gavin Bridgeman
Tustin, California
 
Gavin Bridgeman   Tustin, California
 
My first 11a lead in josh, and almost got the flash. Such a cool and thoughtful crux. Good movement and fun climbing make this climb a gem! I was so stoked, I lowered off and did it again. 4 out of 5 in my book! Mar 19, 2014
Rolf Rybak
Penticton BC
Rolf Rybak   Penticton BC
Almost got the on-sight but pitched off trying to rock over on the big left foot hold. A cool no hands rest somewhere around the 7th bolt. It would have been harder but my strong partner Aubrey hung the draws when she led it. That girl rocks!
It will definitely become a crowd pleaser, good continuos climbing with well thought out safe bolting.
I give it 4.5 stars, once the wee bit of grit gets removed. Jan 28, 2014
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Really good route! Climbs a nice series of features with adequate clipping stances and plenty of bolts. I botched the crux on my first try, pitched... hung, then looked for an alternate method out left or sorta straight up. (This is the way Susan decided to go, and shows some promise for next time) Eventually I walked the ramp out right and did the almost too high highstep all while pulling on some shallow crappy dishes. A few grunts, a bit of toe tapping, and I was home free. It was a hard and insecure move, but with a bolt right at your knee. I'd go 4.383 stars on the 5 star rating system. I can't really say how hard it is since I don't get out much, but it seemed pretty darn hard. 5.10+ for sure, and probably 11a when compared to similar stuff. Jan 27, 2014
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.11a
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.11a
Crux is for certain getting beyond the 9th bolt. Well protected yes but finesse as JD stated, key. I cleaned the route after Russ thinking it may be a preview for the lead. Ultimately I just cleaned the draws with no second attempt on the sharp end. The route is very well protected, stiff moves at the crux I just lost steam for the lead. Appears that the crux may go a few different ways, direct was my mode of choice but even on the lower I tried it again and lost the power to pull it off again.

Nice route, still a bit grainy above so belayers beware. Also a loose flake above calling your name that is sure to come off once someone yards on it way towards the top. Which reminds me, the last section with the horn is pretty cool moves. Great addition guys, this route hasn't seen the last of us. Jan 27, 2014