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Routes in Lost Horse Wall - Left Side

Are You Experienced T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Hesitation Blues T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just Another Crack from LA T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
LA Woman S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Terror in de Skies T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: John Long, Rick Accamazzo & Richard Harrison,1973, FFA: John Long, Lynn Hill, John Yablonski, Mike Lechlinski & John Bachar, 1979, FL: Raleigh Collin
Page Views: 379 total, 8/month
Shared By: Russ Walling on Jan 29, 2014
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start with some quasi hard pulls right off the ground in the blown out seam. Tenuous laybacks and thin jams with poor feet lead to some overlaps of extremely bad rock. The bologna slicer flake out right should be off limits if your belayer wants to live.

Shortly some ok rock will appear, you'll go over a small roof and the wonderful handcrack you hoped for will soon reveal its secret... it is a flared and grainy menace. It might be the longest section of truly flared hand and fist in all of Josh, and it has teeth... navigate this and then a few long pulls will have you to a low angle section and easy climbing to the summit.

I'd really like to go only a half a start on this thing, not just because it kicked my ass so badly... but it just might have some promise. I pulled off quite a bit of loose rock and if it ever cleans up it might actually be in that one star zone. Who knows, maybe even two stars one day.

Downclimb to climbers right, back the way you came, or use the rap chains to drop back into the descent gulley of your choice.

Location

Starts in the pock marked seam that is just left of a big left facing corner/chimney and just right of some scabby rock before the turn of the buttress. It is a pretty obvious line on the face to the right of the big dark dihedrals. The easy to see handcrack that splits the upper half of the route is also a great landmark.

Protection

This would be a pretty sketch lead, and I'm not sure if it ever has been led free. The bolt up in the middle of the route was an old aid bolt that was replaced for some reason. If you were to lead it, something like small wires and cams to 3/4" would probably get you past the low crux. Up above some hand to fist sized cams will go nicely and may even work in the flared portion.

To set up a TR, you will need some time. Hike around the back of the wall to what is known as Rock Garden Valley, the seldom visited right side. Continue up the various gullies well past the "right side" routes and then make a move up a cleft and walk the summit ridge northward. At some point you will see the rap chains for the "Right Side" routes. From these chains walk 10 paces back in the direction you came from and Are You Experienced will be over the other side.

You will need some sort of extendo rope and a handful of cams in the 1.75" to 3.5" range. There is a good horizontal crack for the pro about 15ft down from the actual summit. You will probably need two ropes to reach the ground. Or you can set up the anchor described above with like a 60ft extendo, then lower down and re-set another anchor for the actual TR rig. Yeah, it's a hassle.

Photos

Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Big Al Bartlett has sent me a message: Raleigh Collins has put a lead on this thing. Yikes! Mar 15, 2014
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
I'm now wondering if Gilge has led this thing? Hmmm...

If it was cleaned up and the hideous TR arrangement was not such a ball ache, this rig just might get some more action. Jan 30, 2014