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Routes in Lost Horse Wall - Left Side

Are You Experienced T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Hesitation Blues T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just Another Crack from LA T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
LA Woman S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Terror in de Skies T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Dave Evans and Jim Angione, Jan. 1979
Page Views: 663 total, 5/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jul 25, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A great name, but a poor route. The climb goes up a thin crack.

Location

Several hundred feet to the left of the smooth part of Lost Horse Wall

Protection

Mostly small pieces

Photos

I was able to get a yellow met. cam in down low to protect the first move to the more solid finger lock. I also plugged a comical large offset nut between some nubs to protect the 5.6c move Russ talks about. doubt it would hold a cat on a bungee cord, but it felt fuzzy to see the rope clipped to something. Block on top was slung with reasonable tat on 12/17/16. Dec 30, 2016
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.9
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.9
I thought this route was pretty good. Scared off the lead by the "R" rating but found the climbing enjoyable enough. Clean rock, fun moves, crack takes pro...slung boulder for the decent. Worth doing while checking out the neighboring route and would likely do it again while in the area. Jan 27, 2014
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.8+
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.8+
Good luck finding this with Rogers crappy description above... best bet is to use the beta photo for LA Woman, as this route is about 6 feet to the right of LA Woman.

Climbs pretty good for a junker. Opening moves are not that hard and not R rated. By the time you get 3 feet up, good jugs appear and after another move, good pro in the 1" range. Some hand and finger sized cams will get you to the anchor. Maybe a couple of nuts too.

The move off the top of the big flake is an actual 5.6c move, and the fall might be kinda bad. After this mini mental crux a nice hand and finger crack leads to a rap station of slings.
I'd go 1.5 stars if they would let me. Overall rating is probably about 5.8c/d Jan 27, 2014
Bob Gaines
  5.9 R
Bob Gaines  
  5.9 R
The start is what makes this route funky. Without a stack of crash pads and a couple of spotters, if you blow the opening face moves (5.9 R) chances are you'll get hurt bad due to the jumble of jagged blocks for the landing.

You can clip the first bolt of LA Woman and traverse right over to the big flake for a safer start with adequate pro. From the flake climb a few slab moves (5.7 PG) to reach a long vertical crack. Once you get to the crack the pro is good, with some nice jamming near the top (5.9-). Jan 27, 2014