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Routes in Lost Horse Wall - Left Side

Are You Experienced T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Hesitation Blues T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just Another Crack from LA T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
LA Woman S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Terror in de Skies T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Alan Roberts & Eric Gomper, 1987
Page Views: 403 total, 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 29, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is an interesting route with a little of everything. Overall it is good rock, good protection, and climbs better than it looks. Detractors are getting to it (a little scrambling) and the grainy rock up top prior to the anchors.
Stem up the chimney to a chockstone overhead. Place a piece or two in good stone, then start moving up and out the roof. Place more gear and pull the crux, finger-locking up onto the chockstone (bomber) and onto good feet. Surmount the chock and head up and left to solid cracks. Finish left (softer grainy rock, but secure moves) or right (?better?) to a ledge at perhaps 70-80' up. A fixed belay/rap lies on the climbers' right hand side of this ledge, from which you can rap to the base.

Location

This route lies about 20 meters left of Just Another Crack From LA. It ascends a gaping slot facing south on the right side of a dark tower on the left Lost Horse Rock.

Protection

A set of cams and nuts from fingers to 3". 4" pro optional and might make the bottom feel well protected as opposed to simply 'adequate.'

Photos

Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
this is really fun. the chossy bits here and there do detract somewhat, but easy enough to bypass those and opt for the solid rock. cool stems, sweet jams, and airy athletic jug rail (right split) finish. rap anchor is a single thick rope slung around rock top with rap rings, looking good at moment, but prob needs reinforcing with an additional long webbing/cord at some point Dec 9, 2016