All Locations > Massachusetts > Western MA > Hanging Mountain > Murdock Wall

Butterfly Effect

Name: Butterfly Effect
Rating: 2.4

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Murdock Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Butterfly Effect S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Full Murdock T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Invitation, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Leprosy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Leprosy Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Living On Steroids S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Papillon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ring Neck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

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Type:	Sport, 95 ft (29 m)
GPS:	42.07145, -73.06658
FA:	Shawn Sweeney, 2020
Page Views:	915 total · 17/month
Shared By:	Shawn S on Oct 19, 2021 · Updates
Admins:	sara mcfadden, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Endangered Species Details

Please stay on the trails and stay out of closed areas on the ground and on the cliff

Most of the 14-acre property at Hanging Mountain has been designated as Priority Habitat by MassWildlife’s Natural Heritage & Endangered Species Program (NHESP). As a result, Hanging Mountain and any work performed there is heavily regulated to ensure that the WMCC is in compliance with the Massachusetts Endangered Species Act and Wetlands Protection Act.

More information about NHESP can be found here

Description

Butterfly Effect is a tall sport climb up an elegant white face. Start on the left side of the pillar/block on the left side of the Murdock Wall; make your way to the top of the pillar through ledges and broken cracks. Traverse left on a grass ramp to a set of anchors. From these anchors move up and left to a little cove and ascend crimps to a crack which cuts into a Hueco. Chill out in the Hueco and contemplate the crux. Once you pass the balancey crux enjoy mostly chunky buckets all the way to the chains.

Someone who ticked the route described it simply, "dirty, boring climbing leads to nice slab climbing" pretty spot on haha! But the route has cleaned up a lot over time.

This route is decent for learning how to do multi pitch if you can pull 5.10-! There is an anchor at the left end of the grass ledge. When the FA party put up the route, a dead tree on the ledge made it wise to break the route into two pitches. That tree is now gone.

If doing as one pitch, long draws on bolts at the well-bolted ramp section are nice but not super necessary; also, it is best to back clean the draw on the first anchor (5th bolt) once you clip the next bolt (6th).

Pretty sure a 60m just gets you to the ground, if you have a chopped 60 you should utilize the anchor on the ledge.