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Routes in Murdock Wall
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Butterfly Effect S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Full Murdock T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Invitation, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Leprosy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Leprosy Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Living On Steroids S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Papillon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ring Neck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Tim Murdock |
| Page Views: | 145 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Simon Lee on Aug 3, 2022 |
| Admins: | sara pax, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M |
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Access Issue: Endangered Species
Details
Most of the 14-acre property at Hanging Mountain has been designated as Priority Habitat by MassWildlife’s Natural Heritage & Endangered Species Program (NHESP). As a result, Hanging Mountain and any work performed there is heavily regulated to ensure that the WMCC is in compliance with the Massachusetts Endangered Species Act and Wetlands Protection Act.
More information about NHESP can be found here
Description
First off I want to say that this climb would get a higher star rating if you didn’t have to climb through the area with recent rockfall activity. Some of the flakes are loose or just waiting to fall at some point. Maybe the entire flake system will be gone by the next freeze thaw cycle… the gear placements can also be a bit finicky with the flaring crack system.
That being said, this climb is well-protected and has some good stances. Climb up towards the left-trending bolts. Rejoice the fact that you get 6 bolts in a row on some relatively tame climbing. After your last bolt (you should extend this one to avoid drag), you’ll see a corner with a broken/ tapering crack system. Climb your way through the crack, and either head left (towards Leprosy Arete anchors) or right (towards Living On Steroids anchors).
Although the description in the guidebook says gear up to 1, I found that bringing a size 2 C4 was clutch for protecting the finish of this climb.
Location
The climb starts at the anchor for The Invitation. Follow the left-trending bolts toward what looks like a chossy flake system. You’ll see a small roof and a crack system above.
Alternatively, you can climb up the first pitch of Papillon, and then climb around the tree island to the anchors on the other side (what we did).
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