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East Lichen
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in Lower Blair I
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Another Cryptorchid T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bachelor Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bro Proj, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Community Norms T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Cory's Diagonal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack of the Dudac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack of the Dudac Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Creature Features T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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East Face Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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East Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Electric Gypsy Moth S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fall of the Golden Boy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ice Box T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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In Between T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Le Petit Arbre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Le Petit Contreforce T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Nick's Loose Flake Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pep In Your Step T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Public Enemy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Raised On Robbery T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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RBG T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Scrotum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Senta Life T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Shakey Flakes S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sleep Potato T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Social Mores T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Solstice Slab S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Spike It T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Thief, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Three Roofs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Two Skinny J's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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When You're Strange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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You Left Your Nuts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 41.1902, -105.3874 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 369 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Lawrence on Sep 13, 2021 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Access Issue: Bad Bolt Submission Form & USFS press releases
Details
See more USFS updates and press releases here:
fs.usda.gov/detail/mbr/news….
Description
I climbed this accidentally looking for Creature Features or You Left Your Nuts. It is the first line that looks like it goes on the left when you scramble around to the East face (not the hallway between the East and West Face). I am guessing I didn't get the FA, but it was very strange that at the crux lichen covered section at the top, there was about half an inch of untouched lichen covering perfect hand jams that I had to garden. I have never seen that at the Voo before!
This route has a fun, left-angling hand crack at the start with decent smearing with your left foot, other than the pebbles pouring down that my belayer later told me about. Then do an easy face move to get to a short hand/fist crack. That takes you to the crux lichen. I got a #1 above the lichen in the good hand crack in a spot with no lichen, then once you work your feet up, I got a great #6. Work your feet around to the right on some stemming ledges with frighteningly slippery ball bearing scree on top, and work your way around the chockstone to the right. Then, jump over the little gap, and I finished with an optional easy squeeze chimney that positively flared upwards.
Based on the abundant lichen, I conclude that this route is not on MP yet, let me know if I missed it.
Location
Walk around to the East past the hallway, and scramble up to the Lower Tier on the East Face. This is about 100 feet to the left of Creature Features , and on the tier lower. You can actually do Creature Features as a second pitch to this, or scramble off right to the base (or top out and rap down the West side, and walk back).
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