Avg: 2 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Marcus Brown, 1994|
|Page Views:||3,051 total · 26/month|
|Shared By:||Top Rope Hero on Sep 28, 2011|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki|
The crux is either the above-the-pin traverse (spooky) or trusting those RPs for the last hump over to the ledge. It depends on your head.
At this point, you're on a wide ledge system. The Kelman guide doesn't DESCRIBE a second pitch (you MIGHT be tempted to link it all as one, but the rope drag would have you cursing life and the gods above), but above you are two crack systems that split off from the only obvious hand-sized crack in front of you.
If you take the right, you'll wish you had read this and brought that #4 Camalot--even though it probably only goes at 5.9 or so. Move up and take the left and all you'll need is small gear and maybe a number three if'n you're squeamish like me. It goes at 8 or 8+.
Lastly, Kelman does give this climb a 10b--so I used that here to be all official like. But personally I think this thing goes at 9+. Short climbers will argue otherwise....