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Routes in Lower Blair I

Bachelor Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bro Proj, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Community Norms T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Cory's Diagonal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack of the Dudac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of the Dudac Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creature Features T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Electric Gypsy Moth S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fall of the Golden Boy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Between T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Le Petit Arbre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Petit Contreforce T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nick's Loose Flake Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Public Enemy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raised On Robbery T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Social Mores T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spike It T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Thief, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Three Roofs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Two Skinny J's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
When You're Strange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Marcus Brown, 1993
Page Views: 108 total, 1/month
Shared By: Matt Richardson on Aug 3, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Although this little route might be easily overlooked given the lack luster description in Skip's book, it is worthy of a quick run and an excellent warm up. Start in the double crack system just up the hill from Le Petit Arbre and left of the nasty little mossy gully. The double crack system is obvious as it terminates at a point about 20' up.

The first pitch, while mostly straightforward, contains your standard Vedauwoo funk. Follow the double cracks up for some mellow climbing to a bulge containing a wide section just above the point. Here you can bust out your chicken wings and arm bars or just lay back the crack on some nice face holds (what I ended up doing) to surmount this obstacle. Then continue up the hand size crack to a big ledge just above another grassy ledge to the right.

For the second pitch, move the belay down and over about 10' to the aforementioned grassy ledge (if you don't you will potentially put a lot of stress on your system if the leader were to fall). Take the leftmost crack of the two cracks up from the ledge using mostly hands. About 20' up, the wall bulges and the crack pinches down to almost perfect fingers - this is what you came for. Clip the old pin (and probably back it up - a nut will do) and step up and into the crack - this is the crux. The crack eases up considerably above the bulge. Belay atop Blair I.

Location

This route is located uphill from Le Petit Arbre and just past the mossy gully. To get down, rap off the boulder at the south end from the chains to the top of P1 of Le Petit Arbre. A 70 m will not make it all the way down, so from here you will either have to walk off south or rap off of the bolts of P1 of Le Petit Arbre.

Protection

Although from the bottom, this appears to be wide, I found that you could easily get away with a set of singles to a #3 Camalot C4 supplemented with a set of nuts. For the belay atop the first pitch, you could actually just wedge your body in to the crack behind the rocks if you had no gear available.

Photos

morkel
Fort Collins, CO
morkel   Fort Collins, CO
Take the left crack from the belay ledge as mentioned in Social Mores for a 5.8 route, it's a good a good alternative when Le Petit Arbre is crowded.

A new rappel station can be found about 50 feet to the east (left), at the top of Three Roof. 30 m to the ground if you veer left. Aug 9, 2015
Katie Foster
Laramie, Wy
  5.9
Katie Foster   Laramie, Wy
  5.9
First pitch is very dirty and mossy but fun and interesting the whole way. First pitch is probably only 5.8? Second pitch has a stiff crux. Jul 14, 2015