Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lower Blair I

Bachelor Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bro Proj, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Community Norms T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Cory's Diagonal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack of the Dudac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of the Dudac Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creature Features T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Electric Gypsy Moth S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fall of the Golden Boy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Between T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Le Petit Arbre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Petit Contreforce T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nick's Loose Flake Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Public Enemy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raised On Robbery T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Social Mores T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spike It T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Thief, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Three Roofs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Two Skinny J's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
When You're Strange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,132 total, 23/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Jun 7, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Face climbing and pinching on crystals between horizontal cracks. Top out on a vertical crack. Moves tend to be delicate and awkward with good rests in between on the horizontals. The crux comes early on so pre-clipping the first bolt from the boulder is not a bad idea.

The route gets its name because we were climbing the day before Jeff's wedding. After getting beat up by some harder routes, we went to climb Le Petit Arbre. Upon rappelling I decided to give the line a try on TR. It proved excellent and appeared unclimbed (Skip Harper Webpage, Fat Crack Country Book), so Shane came to join us for the lead. Quite a memorable bachelor party.

Location

This is just left of Le Petit Arbre on Lower Blair I. Look for the 2 bolts to crack finish. Can walk off the ledge, rap off the ledge, or better yet continue up Nick's Loose Flake Variation and rap all the way to the ground from that anchor with a 60 meter rope.

Protection

Gear to 2" and 2 quickdraws for the 2 bolts. Gear anchor. 0.5" pieces work well on this route.
bart cubrich 1
  5.10a
bart cubrich 1  
  5.10a
I did find this route pretty soft for a Vedauwoo 10a, but it was pretty darn fun. I think it is reasonable 10a elsewhere (A thing of Beauty is a good reality check on what real 10a is like). First bolt might be unnecessary given the sweet horizontal. Aug 21, 2014
slim

  5.10b
slim    
  5.10b
I thought this was a nice addition to the area. I had climbed most of the stuff around here, so it was nice to check out something I hadn't done before and that I didn't know anything about. The bolt locations seemed well thought out. Good stances to clip from, good protection, yet not really infringing on the possible gear placements. 10a or 10b seemed pretty reasonable, I wouldn't argue too much one way or the other.

Thanks for the addition and nice job equipping it. Aug 23, 2010
Charles Cundiff
  5.10a
Charles Cundiff  
  5.10a
... and I do highly recommend (as mentioned in the route description) linking this with Nick's Loose Flake to get back down. It's what I ended up doing because after I finished I happened to have two #2s and one #1 Camalots left on my harness (which is just about perfect for the second "pitch"). Aug 8, 2010
Charles Cundiff
  5.10a
Charles Cundiff  
  5.10a
It's a good route, though you could have painted those shiny bolts. It looks like a Christmas tree. I think that they are perfectly placed to give it a bold feeling while still being quite safe.

It felt like 5.10 to me as I hopped on it knowing nothing about the route. It could be 9+ if you aren't scared, but I think that a 10b would be a bit soft. But, since I haven't climbed any other slabs at Vedauwoo I can't really compare. Aug 8, 2010
rob.calm
Loveland, Colorado
rob.calm   Loveland, Colorado
The name “Bachelor Party” has already been used for a route at Vedauwoo. The route is at Valley Massif. The first ascent of this route was done by Michael Friedrichs in 1995 and can be found in a guidebook published in 2004:
Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo, Wyoming

Since this is a sport based on trust, and there is no evidence to contradict mdavis’ assertion of a first ascent, one assumes that he did the first ascent, and should be the one to name the route. My suggestion for the OP is to edit this thread and change the name to that proposed by mdavis.

Rob.calm Jul 31, 2010
Daniel Crescenzo
  5.10b
Daniel Crescenzo  
  5.10b
Awesome route. Thanks for the beta and belay yesterday, Jeff. Jun 21, 2010
mdavis  
Dear Jeff, I did not post bro proj, JP did= the bolts are great= the boldness fades after you rehearse it try it= it's not bad. Jun 19, 2010
Shane Zumpf
Laramie, WY
Shane Zumpf   Laramie, WY
If anyone has objections to the bolts that were placed and the route was previously done without them, then we should go ahead and remove them. You may also want to change the name back to what mdavis said it was. I kind of doubt that he's making up the fact that he's already done this. No point in it really. It would be helpful to add new routes that have been done to MP in order to avoid this confusion in the future. Thanks, guys! Jun 15, 2010
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
I have to admit, I was a little confused about this too. I know Julian Poush (the guy who got the FA of The Bro Proj) and I've seen him climb some pretty hairy stuff. It wouldn't actually surprise me if he and the people he typically climbs with were that bold. The iffy thing about it is the bolts. With a lot of the climbing out here, you really need to do your due diligence before sinking bolts, otherwise you're likely to bolt something that went without previously (like the top bolts on Cornelius, Sugar Crack, and quite a few others). Jun 12, 2010
Jeff S
UT
 
Jeff S   UT
 
mdavis: I am from the Laramie and would like to see other routes that are not in the guide book.
I feel that 10a/b would be an accurate rating in comparison to Sketchy Palsy, The Electric Gypsy Moth, Take Five and Bragging about Jesus, which are all climbs that I have done, which have similar slab climbing to this one in that area.
Unfortunately I cannot take your word either on the FA. If you posted the Bro Proj, then why did you not post this route at the same time? I do not want to make waves, but I think this would be a pretty bold route to lead without at least the second bolt we installed. Jun 12, 2010
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
 
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
 
I've retooled the route info a bit. I think this will be a good compromise. Jun 12, 2010
mdavis  
Sorry, one photo says on the FA and they are on TR= maybe next time you're in town, send me a message and I can show you a couple other routes not online or in guidebooks=that will be fun=== our word is all we have in this sport/journey=== and this is still bothering me 5.10b you think this compares to=Raised on Robbery= or= A Thing of Beauty=? Jun 11, 2010
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
 
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
 
I'm having a little trouble following you, mdavis. If you look through the photos, you will see that I in fact led the route. I'm not sure to take you at your word as you guys posted up Bro Proj last year but neglected to post this one up too, but maybe so. Either way, having no way to know we did what we did and had a blast. I'm anxious for others to hop on this to see what they think. Jun 9, 2010
mdavis  
I did do that on all gear, right after the j-dog put up the bro proj right next to it, to the right little seems bad gear. 10b, nope! 9+. You must not of noticed the horizontal crack you use was cleaner than the part you don't, weird?=== P.S. toprope does not count as F.A. maybe F.T.R. The name of it is My Little Dick. Like My Little Pony but change Pony to Dick.... That was a joke, but seriously the name is My Little Dick. No hard feeling :) Have a good day. Jun 8, 2010