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Fall of the Golden Boy
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Lower Blair I
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Another Cryptorchid T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bachelor Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bro Proj, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Community Norms T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Cory's Diagonal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack of the Dudac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack of the Dudac Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Creature Features T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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East Face Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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East Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Electric Gypsy Moth S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fall of the Golden Boy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ice Box T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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In Between T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Le Petit Arbre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Le Petit Contreforce T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Nick's Loose Flake Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pep In Your Step T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Public Enemy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Raised On Robbery T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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RBG T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Scrotum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Senta Life T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Shakey Flakes S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sleep Potato T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Social Mores T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Solstice Slab S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Spike It T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Thief, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Three Roofs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Two Skinny J's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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When You're Strange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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You Left Your Nuts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| GPS: | 41.1902, -105.3874 |
| FA: | Julian Poush, Shane Miller, Fall 2008 |
| Page Views: | 1,015 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Jun 17, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Access Issue: Bad Bolt Submission Form & USFS press releases
Details
See more USFS updates and press releases here:
fs.usda.gov/detail/mbr/news….
Description
Fall of the Golden Boy shares the first 15 feet of slabby climbing with its neighbor Two Skinny Js. Fall of the Golden Boy splits off to the right in an overhanging hand and finger crack in a left-facing dihedral. After 20 feet, it then rejoins Two Skinny Js for easy face climbing to hands and offwidth in a flared, right-facing dihedral.
This route is named for a massive whipper that Shane caught on Dillingham Blues in Fremont Canyon. His friend the "Golden Boy" whipped huge, ripped out all his gear, factored two on the anchor and hit the water.
Protection
Single set of cams from 00 Metolius up to #5 Camalot, with doubles in hands and fingers. 1 Standard set of stoppers. 3-5 single length runners.
Location
Fall of the Golden follows a crack system on the far right side of the southeast face of Blair 1. To the left of it is Two Skinny J's, Crack of the Dudac, and Crack of the Dudac Direct (in that order). A bit further to the left is located Another Cryptorchid, You Left Your Nuts, Scrotum, and East Face Direct (in that order, these climbs are all listed in the Robert Kelman guidebook). Fall of the Golden Boy is the last continuous good looking crack system on the right side of the wall.
Build an anchor. Walk off.
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