Fall of the Golden Boy
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in Lower Blair I
|Bachelor Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Bro Proj, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Community Norms T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Cory's Diagonal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Crack of the Dudac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Crack of the Dudac Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Creature Features T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Electric Gypsy Moth S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Fall of the Golden Boy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|In Between T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Le Petit Arbre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Le Petit Contreforce T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Nick's Loose Flake Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Public Enemy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Raised On Robbery T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Social Mores T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Spike It T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Thief, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Three Roofs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Two Skinny J's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|When You're Strange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, 75 ft|
|FA:||Julian Poush, Shane Miller, Fall 2008|
|Page Views:||127 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Orphaned on Jun 17, 2010|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki|
DescriptionFall of the Golden Boy shares the first 15 feet of slabby climbing with its neighbor Two Skinny Js. Fall of the Golden Boy splits off to the right in an overhanging hand and finger crack in a left-facing dihedral. After 20 feet, it then rejoins Two Skinny Js for easy face climbing to hands and offwidth in a flared, right-facing dihedral.
This route is named for a massive whipper that Shane caught on Dillingham Blues in Fremont Canyon. His friend the "Golden Boy" whipped huge, ripped out all his gear, factored two on the anchor and hit the water.
ProtectionSingle set of cams from 00 Metolius up to #5 Camalot, with doubles in hands and fingers. 1 Standard set of stoppers. 3-5 single length runners.
LocationFall of the Golden follows a crack system on the far right side of the south east face of Blair 1. to the left of it is Two Skinny J's, Crack of the Dudac, and Crack of the Dudac Direct (in that order). A bit further to the left is located Another Cryptorchid, Your Nuts, Scrotum, and East Face Direct (in that order, these climbs are all listed in the Robert Kelman guide). Fall of the Golden Boy is the last continuous good looking crack system on the right side of the wall.
Build an anchor. Walk off.
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