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Routes in Lower Blair I

Bachelor Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bro Proj, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Community Norms T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Cory's Diagonal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack of the Dudac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of the Dudac Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creature Features T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Electric Gypsy Moth S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fall of the Golden Boy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Between T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Le Petit Arbre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Petit Contreforce T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nick's Loose Flake Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Public Enemy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raised On Robbery T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Social Mores T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spike It T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Thief, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Three Roofs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Two Skinny J's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
When You're Strange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Wade Griffith, Pat Fleming, Mark Jenkins
Page Views: 2,736 total, 17/month
Shared By: Wade Griffith on Aug 30, 2004
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This route is located on Blair I next to Raised on Robbery - a Bob Scarpelli classic. It starts on some 5.9 hands angling left until you can clip a bolt out right to gain the flared traverse. At the end of the traverse, head up the thin crack until you make a tricky switch into the sustained hand crack above.

Location

This route is located on Blair I next to Raised on Robbery.

Protection

Small to hand-sized gear and a couple of QDs.

Photos

The 10a rating in the Orenczak/Lynn guidebook is comical. At least it's not a dangerous sandbag as the route is very safe once the first bolt is clipped. Jul 9, 2015
Jeff S
UT
Jeff S   UT
I always thought this climb was more difficult than 10a, but after looking at the up-to-date guide, I thought I might be wrong in my thinking (after not climbing the Voo in sometime). Upon leading the route I reaffirmed my previous beliefs as to the difficulty of the climb after hanging several times. Sep 22, 2014
This gets a 10a rating in Zach's guide? I really do not understand how he came up with that. He did not do his research very well in some circumstances. Dec 13, 2013
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
 
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
 
Classic route. Not 10a, as the newest guidebook states—that's hilarious. 11b/c feels right. Sep 3, 2013
Elijah Flenner
  5.11b
Elijah Flenner  
  5.11b
I traverse much lower than shown in the picture, all the way to where the horizontal ends.

A couple of hard moves protected by the bolt, then sustained, but easier, to the top. Aug 21, 2010
Found a green extender on the second bolt. Looks like it had been there for awhile, but if it was left on purpose (for working the route) let me know. Seems like a waste to leave 2 biners and an extender to bail with. Aug 8, 2010