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Routes in Lower Blair I

Bachelor Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bro Proj, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Community Norms T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Cory's Diagonal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack of the Dudac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of the Dudac Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creature Features T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Electric Gypsy Moth S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fall of the Golden Boy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Between T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Le Petit Arbre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Petit Contreforce T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nick's Loose Flake Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Public Enemy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raised On Robbery T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Social Mores T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spike It T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Thief, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Three Roofs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Two Skinny J's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
When You're Strange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Ray Jacquot, Tom Berg, 1978
Page Views: 653 total, 6/month
Shared By: Matt Richardson on Aug 6, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

In Between shares a start in a low angle slot with another 7, Three Roofs. Three Roofs will follow the rightmost crack system while In Between will follow a parallel set of wide cracks to the left. About 10 to 15' up, move over into the wide and awkward overhanging section which is actually easier than it looks. Continue up a series of wide cracks that get progressively more difficult as you proceed upward. Although from the ground this crack appears to be almost chimney-sized, when viewed from the top, it appears as a wedge shaped crack which will require your typical wide crack trickery. For the grade, this route is a lot of fun (if wide meets your idea of fun) and is consistent (it will have you grunting throughout). Near the top, the crack diverges - stepping into the right-most crack provides the most simple solution to the finish. Belay at the top of Blair I.

Location

In Between is located at the northwestern end of Blair I just past Community Norms and before the jumble of boulders leading to Raised On Robbery. Descend as for Spike It by walking to a set of anchors located above Le Petit Arbre. Two raps will get you to the ground.

Protection

You can get away with a standard sized rack but extras in the hands-plus sizes will make it feel more comfortable. There are places for slotting your #4-#6, but you can probably leave them.

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