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Routes in Lower Blair I

Bachelor Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bro Proj, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Community Norms T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Cory's Diagonal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack of the Dudac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of the Dudac Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creature Features T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Electric Gypsy Moth S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fall of the Golden Boy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Between T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Le Petit Arbre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Petit Contreforce T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nick's Loose Flake Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Public Enemy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raised On Robbery T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Social Mores T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spike It T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Thief, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Three Roofs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Two Skinny J's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
When You're Strange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Marcus Brown, 1994
Page Views: 5,339 total, 36/month
Shared By: Brian Weinstein on Aug 8, 2005
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This route is the right-most route on the Northwest face of Blair I. Take the Blair trail and cut in between Blair III from the west through a nice aspen grove. Follow the wall until the obvious hand crack comes into view.

Pitch 1 might be the best moderate hand crack (5.6) in all of Vedauwoo. Follow perfect hands to the shelf and belay.

Pitch 2 has a move or two of 5.9 upon entering the crack over a wild rasberry bush. Follow the pleasant crack with the little tree (hence the name) to the top and belay.

The descent involves either downclimbing a chimney or rapping from anchors across the top of the chimney.

Protection

Bring a standard rack with an emphasis on hand-sized gear.
cstebbins024
Laramie, WY
  5.8
cstebbins024   Laramie, WY
  5.8
I give the first pitch of this route a 5.7 rating. It only has a 5.8+ rating because of the second pitch. If 5.8+ is intimidating do the first pitch, move left maybe ten or fifteen feet on the giant shelf and climb Nicks Loose Flake. It is really fun and varied in my opinion. Otherwise rap from the bolts after the first pitch. Oct 20, 2014
Brian Horlick
Laramie, WY
  5.8
Brian Horlick   Laramie, WY
  5.8
The first pitch is really what makes this climb worthwhile, most people don't even consider the second one. I think the second pitch is also fun, albeit short, with an early 1 or 2 move crux. Definitely 5.8 if you have a little OW technique, maybe harder for the inexperienced. Feb 12, 2013
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
This route is in the 2011 Zach "The Voo" guide.

Typical crystalline Vedauwoo crack, be sure to tape unless you are very careful jamming.

Second pitch is classic difficult Vedauwoo start with the rock eroded into a rounded overhang, where getting the feet high enough to get established is the crux.

Classic Vedauwoo crack climbing!

The bolts are right at the top of the climb, where sport climb bolts are typically placed. However, there is a decent ledge right below the bolts that you can stand on to start a rappel. Be careful! Apr 26, 2012
Mike Wallace
Summit County, CO
 
Mike Wallace   Summit County, CO
 
Great intro for leading at the 'Voo (my first). Good confidence builder before getting on all those nasty .9s that plague the valley :-) Sep 13, 2010
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.8
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.8
First, this route is not in Zach's book, which is inexplicible considering that the route went up shortly after the first Harper/Kellman book was published and has been on Skip Harper's page for nearly as long. The remainder of the rant is better posted elsewhere, but the short version is "write down the directions before you go out there".

Second, this thing should be benchmark for 5.8. The first pitch was harder than I expected since it was a lot of big hands, but still. I carried a double set from .5 to 4 c4 + some nuts and used every cam somewhere on the climb.

Third, some bolts have been placed right at the lip at the top of the first pitch. If doing the entire climb, these bolts are of dubious utility, since it forces you into an almost hanging stance 18 inches below a ledge large enough to park a semi trailer. Belay next to the beginning of the second pitch, and use a long tether instead. However, with a single 60m rope, you can rap down the nearby Nick's Flake (not actually certain on the name of that route, but the bolts are bloody obvious about 30 feet left of the top of the second pitch), then do a second rappel down the first pitch. Might be doable with a 50m rope, I haven't tried.

Supremely high quality. Oct 19, 2009
kili
29 palms, ca
  5.7
kili   29 palms, ca
  5.7
Great handcrack, the second pitch seemed easier than the first. I used a solid fist to start the second pitch. Oct 7, 2009
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
An attentive spot at the start of the second pitch is a good idea. After that the difficulty eases dramatically. Jul 21, 2008
chrisp
boulder
chrisp   boulder
The first pitch was super easy and fun. I would definately agree that this is one of the nicest moderate cracks in the area.

The second pitch is no way comprable to lower progressive which is rated 9+, this route is 8+. I would think the second pitch goes at an easy 8+ and a great route for someone aspiring to be doing a harder 5.8. This thing was a classic vedauwoo pitch of a moderately no feet start in a beautiful hand crack. One can get a good spot from a belayer before getting established in the crack, at which point you can set good gear- hand sized to keep you off the deck.

Great route! Jul 30, 2006
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
  5.8
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
  5.8
The first pitch is definitely sweet. You couldn't ask for a nicer intro to hand jamming. The second pitch is very nice - and doable. Relative to other climbs in the 5.9 area at Vedauwoo (such as Lower Progressive), this feels soft for the grade. Jul 3, 2006