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Danger Baby
5.13a/b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 4 from 3
votes
Routes in Lower Elbow Room
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30 Miles to Water S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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A Life Shared is a Better Life T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Aunti Vigilante S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bomb Cyclone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Brighter Days S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Brighter Days First Anchor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Buckets Bedazzlin’ S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Chuckers S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Danger Baby S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Dangerously Direct S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Deckchair Darrell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Don't Kid, Minibike S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Elbow Macaroni S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fight or Flight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Free Range Pit Bulls S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fuck a Duck S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Head Rush S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Holy guacamoly S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Iceberg II S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lawnchair Larry S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Life Goes On S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Limelight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Love Me Easy S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Not Kidding (variation to Don't Kid Mini Bike) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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P.D. Time S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Palm Reader S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pet Trackers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Phoenix S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Quail Crack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Quail Trail S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Roller Coaster Ride S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rush Hour Traffic S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short and Sweet S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slip 'n Slide S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stinkfist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sunny Warmup S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Supersweet(Sweetie 2.0) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tickbait S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Vapor Trail S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Weapon Out And Belly In S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Wings S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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You Don't Want None S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 37.52328, -118.57385 |
| FA: | Tom Helvie, Fan Yang; 2021 |
| Page Views: | 1,465 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Fan Y on Apr 5, 2021 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!!
Details
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
This was the original line on the face. Tom bolted this route on hooks (although he said the first 5 were put up by someone else), and it is a spectacular line with stellar movement! Life simply got in the way and his family kept him busy, so he never got around to the redpoint and graciously gifted me the privilege for a FA. I must emphasize that he had done all the work to make this route climbable - all the cleaning and ensuring all the bolts are well placed, while I simply had to tie in for the fun.
Easy slab climbing for 2 bolts lands you on a ledge, and fire the 5.12 face section before a nice rest. Step right for the stellar 5.13 climbing that you've come for - big moves and a delicate finish...it's definitely not over until you've clipped the mussies! The anchor bolts are placed high to facilitate a tricky top-out for a proper ascent. It's bound to be a Gorge classic! As for difficulty, it feels like 13a/b, easier if you have the span of an orangutan.
Tom wanted to name the route Danger Baby after his son Gavin, whose fearlessness is "always scaring the beegeezus out of us," quoting Ha Ngo.
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