Limelight
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Type: | Sport, 175 ft (53 m) |
FA: | Jeff Scheuerell and Darrell Hensell |
Page Views: | 93 total · 50/month |
Shared By: | Jeff Scheuerell on Feb 23, 2025 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
I don't know how many times while climbing at the Gorgeous towers in the afternoon, down jacket keeping the chill at bay, I have seen the upper headwall of the Lower Elbow Room in that almost magical glow. Often wishing right then for the warmth of the sun and wondering if there are enough features up there for this aging climber to grasp. While the ledges are obvious, the upper headwall not so much.
Thankfully, there are just enough features for those of us without fingers of steel. And while the grade is nothing to boast about, pulling the final few moves on the headwall while the canyon rim shades the lower half of the route really makes one feel in the Limelight. This route truly is a universal dream! Ok, maybe not, but we think it's pretty fun!
The route can be done in one, two or three pitches. If doing it in one, you want to be really solid at the grade as there are several cruxy moves above the 2nd anchor ledge and with all the rope out, stretch would be high. The rope should run pretty good but a couple of shoulder length slings would be the ticket. Also if doing it in one, skipping a few bolts on the first pitch should be no problem. I think 2 is Ideal and 3 would be almost silly although the safest.
If doing it in two pitches, climb Rush Hour Traffic(5.8) to its nice sizeable ledge, then do two and three as one pitch.
We are still working on other lines and still cleaning routes. Please keep this in mind as cleaning above can make the holds below dirty. There is a small amount of crumbly rock that will fully clean up with traffic. Also please be respectful of our fixed lines, if moved return them to there location.
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