Type: Sport, TR, 55 ft (17 m)
GPS: 30.25077, -97.79694
FA: TR or Lead
Page Views: 596 total · 10/month
Shared By: Vincent P on Dec 30, 2020
Admins: mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell, Kathy Farmer, Vincent P, Jim Day, Joanie Mars

You & This Route


1 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

For all you bored Gus Fruh regulars, this is a fun/challenging TR variation off King of Ging’s anchors (edit 12/2021: can lead climb using 3 bolts on jerry's with extension on 3rd, and last bolt of sex dwarves)

THE NAME OF THE GAME IS SIMPLE: don’t touch ANY handholds that you use from Jerry’s Kids nor King of Ging.  All footholds are on. That’s it!

  • Note the entry jump-start also doesn’t share any holds
  • It does share one handhold with Sex Dwarves, but when you try it out, you’ll see it’s a completely different move

THE MOVEMENT AND VARIETY are good: jump-start, heel-hook, jugs, mantle, crimps, gaston, pocket, undercling, high foot, hip in the wall, smearing, more pockets.

ABOUT THE GRADING: obviously it's a contrived route, but it’s still fun and challenging. I got it on my ~6th attempt, 5th day, making it harder for me than the Greenbelt 11b’s like Jerry’s Kids, Trash Can Man, and Hysteria which I all got on my 2nd attempt. 6 attempts is around equivalent to other Greenbelt 11c’s for me like Peewee’s, Reefer Madness, and Sunshine Boys. It can even be argued as harder than some GB 11c’s which went much quicker (within 2 attempts) for me like Fook Yu, Walk the Dog (is that really 11c?), and Cell Block, but I think 11c feels right.  

What would you grade it?  Would be cool to hear your thoughts (and in Austin climbing tradition, I’ll brace myself for the verbal assault haha). 

-Vince

TR video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kL8aIDsSVTE

Lead video: youtube.com/watch?v=ORrxunE…

Location Suggest change

Jump-start between Jerry's Kids and King of Ging

Protection Suggest change

Toprope off King of Ging's anchors (or can lead climb using 3 bolts on jerry's with extension on 3rd, and last bolt of sex dwarves)

Photos

loading