Type: Boulder
FA: Hank Caylor/Rex
Page Views: 1,275 total · 19/month
Shared By: Phil Chai on Jun 7, 2014
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Description

Summary: Start in the back left of the cave under Kingdom of Ging. follow obvious jug haul out towards the left to two crimps at the lip. Make the huge move from the crimps out to the triangular jutting jug. Traverse right on the ledge and then top out.

Details: Line begins from two jugs directly in the back, centerline of the Kingdom of Ging cave. It moves into a jug / pocket, directly behind you (going out of the cave), into another jug to your left side. There will be one more jug, directly center, that you will move to before you reach to a deep 2-3 finger pocket out to the left. With some footwork, move out to the right to a 3 finger half crimp and up to the jugs above, traversing slightly up and to the right. It finishes directly under Charlie Don't Surf.

Good: Holds are very good for the first half of the route, but with limited feet / tricky sequencing, the first half of the route can feel awkward.

Bad: The deep 2-3 finger pocket. Somewhat sharp, pulling off the pocket can shred some serious skin. The problem is completely overhung, so figuring out your beta and moving quickly will help.

Crux: Moving from the pocket to the half crimp. The key is using either a heel hook or toe hook & drop knee to crank up to the crimp. Body tension should be your focus.

Location

Kingdom of Ging, directly centerline.

Protection

Pads, spotters

Photos

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