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Routes in Kingdom of Ging

Arkansas Polio Weed V7 7A+
Borg, The V6 7A
Bunion Blow V8 7B
Bunion Blow Full Left V9 7C
Bunion Blow Left V8 7B
Charlie Don't Surf S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cherry Blossom V5-6 6C+
Crossfire V3 6A
Cube, The V4 6B
Gray Streak S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hank's Direct V7 7A+
Hank's Left / B8 V7 7A+
Hank's Right V7 7A+
Jerry's Kids S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
King of Ging S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Must Be 72 Inches to Ride V8 7B
Spank Bank V12 8A+
Tabula Rasa V8 7B
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Type: Boulder
FA: Hank Caylor/Rex
Page Views: 616 total, 15/month
Shared By: Phil Chai on Jun 7, 2014
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Summary: Start in the back left of the cave under Kingdom of Ging. follow obvious jug haul out towards the left to two crimps at the lip. Make the huge move from the crimps out to the triangular jutting jug. Traverse right on the ledge and then top out.

Details: Line begins from two jugs directly in the back, centerline of the Kingdom of Ging cave. It moves into a jug / pocket, directly behind you (going out of the cave), into another jug to your left side. There will be one more jug, directly center, that you will move to before you reach to a deep 2-3 finger pocket out to the left. With some footwork, move out to the right to a 3 finger half crimp and up to the jugs above, traversing slightly up and to the right. It finishes directly under Charlie Don't Surf.

Good: Holds are very good for the first half of the route, but with limited feet / tricky sequencing, the first half of the route can feel awkward.

Bad: The deep 2-3 finger pocket. Somewhat sharp, pulling off the pocket can shred some serious skin. The problem is completely overhung, so figuring out your beta and moving quickly will help.

Crux: Moving from the pocket to the half crimp. The key is using either a heel hook or toe hook & drop knee to crank up to the crimp. Body tension should be your focus.


Kingdom of Ging, directly centerline.


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This problem is not called Hank's B8, it should be titled Hank's Direct, or Hank's Center. Hank's B8 is actually Hank's Left. This is more of a variation of Hank's Right. Mar 3, 2017
Phil Chai
Austin, TX
Phil Chai   Austin, TX