All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Pine Creek Canyon > Out of Control Area

Under Control

Name: Under Control
Rating: 2.0

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in Out of Control Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	American Ninja T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Control Freak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Illusion of Control, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Indirect Proof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Out of Control T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Overshoot T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Remote Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Under Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Unknown 5.5 S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R

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Type:	Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	36.12527, -115.49419
FA:	Jimmy Schaefer
Page Views:	648 total · 10/month
Shared By:	Rprops on Dec 12, 2020
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

Far left of Birdland is a tower of sandstone detached from the main wall. After climbing to the top of the tower, we looked into the chasm behind and saw a splitter lightning bolt crack emerging from the depths. It looked steep, sharp, and clean, so we got down and had ourselves a look.

The left side of the tower forms a cave with a chimney above. This part is pretty cruxy, so get ready for a struggle right off the bat. Chimney above and head in to belay near the base of a wide pod in the left wall.

Again, start this pitch with more struggle and surmount the pod to gain the crack. The crack is pretty splitter, but this is Red Rock so it's surrounded by tons of faceholds to keep it tame. As you near the top, keep your eyes open to the left. Eventually traverse left to a massive ledge to belay.

Above the ledge is a tree. Scramble up to it and double rope rap back to the packs. Alternatively, scramble across ledges left to Out of Control.