Type: Trad, 140 ft (42 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 614 total · 14/month
Shared By: Rprops on Dec 12, 2020
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Aaron Mc

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Twenty feet left of Out of Control sits a fun line characterized by a bold beginning and fun end.  It's a bit of a shame that it gets no love, but it is a worthy line that all in my party were happy to get on.

A stiff move with no pro gets you off the ground and into the finger crack.  This part looks intimidating, but be brave and a couple moves on finger locks get you to jugs above.  Good crack climbing gets you to two mini roofs.  The first has an easily avoided loose block under it.  Pass it on the left with a bit of laybacking.  

The second roof caps the crux.  The crack dwindles to a nice splitter, which is unfortunately too thin to put a nickel in.  Pull up next to it, fiddle in a brass nut or two, and get to work.  Hard moves get you to the left where you will be rewarded with a pleasant hand crack and jug fest to the top.

If you are toproping with an 80m rope build your anchor a few feet below the sloping ledge. 

If belaying your second up either belay off your own anchor or traverse left 25' and use the 2 bolts.

Location Suggest change

20' left of Out of Control.  Decent cleared area in the bushes to belay

Protection Suggest change

Doubles .2-2. Single 3+4. 3-5x .3 RP's. Ballnuts may be nice.

Bolted Anchor 25' left of the top.