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The Illusion of Control
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in Out of Control Area
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American Ninja T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Control Freak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Illusion of Control, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Indirect Proof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Out of Control T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Overshoot T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Remote Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Under Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 36.12527, -115.49419 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 579 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Rprops on Dec 12, 2020 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
This route starts out so good, and then it ends.....well it ends.
Start in the wide chimney and climb twin cracks on good rock until the crack peters out. Above this climb the pleasant arete on solid varnish until the rock shifts back to vertical.
The crack provides plenty of protection, but the rock does not inspire confidence. Well, the rock is bad. But what it lacks in quality, it makes up for in quantity!
Finish with a fun top out on a nice ledge. Belay your second up on any sized gear between .1 and 3". Walk off climbers left, the same as for Out of Control
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