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Routes in Out of Control Area

American Ninja T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Indirect Proof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Out of Control T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Remote Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.5 S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Randal Grandstaff, Dave Anderson 1978
Page Views: 6,566 total · 48/month
Shared By: AJ on Nov 19, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is a very enjoyable pitch. Great rock, aesthetic jamming, and nice rests to take in the view.

The crack is mostly splitter finger/thin hand jams. At the top there's a short widening crack which leads up into an A-frame roof. You need some larger gear here (#3.5 – 4 Camalot) but don’t have to do any real OW moves. Cool moves lead to a nice belay ledge with rap chains, just above the roof.

Protection

standard rack to 4". A couple extra .5 - 1" pieces are useful.
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Sustained, excellent climbing. One of the best splitter cracks I've climbed in the park. The slot is demanding and the roof is the easiest part! Jan 12, 2015
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
 
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
 
This is hands down one of the best 5.10 pitches at Red Rocks - 110 feet of fun, well protected climbing that rewards good technique and footwork. I don’t think there are any moves harder than 10a but the difficulty is fairly sustained. That being said, it’s not an enduro pitch – there are two or three decent rests including right before the final roof move. I brought doubles through 2, triples of 0.5, 0.75, and 1, and a single 3 and 4 and the rack was perfect. If you do a little gear-sliding and get creative with nuts you could get by with a standard double rack without being too bold.

UPDATE: Led this route again with only doubles of 0.5 - 1. Definitely spicier but manageable if you make liberal use of nuts to conserve cams. I recently climbed two other classic Red Rocks 5.10 splitters, The Fox and The Schwa, and I think this route is the hardest of the three. Nov 17, 2014
Sean
Oak Park, CA
 
Sean   Oak Park, CA
 
Handren book indicated triples of 1" to 3" plus a 4" piece. Brought up two C4 0.75 pieces anyway from eyeing the crack from ground. The crux of this send was remaining calm and unresentful while bumping up the lone red Link Cam for dreadful long stretches of fingers, trying not to think about the huge 50 ft air at times if the bumping goes awry with a peel off. Like some have mentioned, would add one 0.4 (yellow Alien), three 0.5 (red Alien), and a third C4 0.75. Could also pare down to either one 2" piece and three 3" or two of each.

Fantastic soaring splitter with wild roof finish. Apr 12, 2013
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10+
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10+
This one is burl-doggin' for sure. Holy shit. I was kicking and screaming on this. Hardest 10c I've climbed. So good. So physical. Rap easily with a 70m. Mar 9, 2012
WOOOOOOO! This route is GOOD!

Rack: SR 00-4, 2x .4-2, 3-4 .5, .75, 1.

Climbs very much like a creek splitter with a couple of cool face "cheats", so I'd reccommend protecting it like one. White+pink rock as well-soft stuff for Red Rock. Really nice 10+ testpiece that keeps your interest the whole way, sustained in ringlocks-thin hands for my size hands. The earlier comment about the loose block is on the money-this might turn into an OW if someone managed to trundle that beast. Save #2 and a long sling for the finish, our group disagreed about location of the crux area, seemed very size dependant. Anchor's in good shape, enjoy! Jan 23, 2012
Patrick Mulligan
  5.10+
Patrick Mulligan  
  5.10+
I did this route almost 10 years ago, but it has stuck with me. It wasn't one distinct crux that gets you on this thing, but somehow I was pretty spent by the end. There are however some very good rests. With American Ninja and Remote Control close by its worth spending a morning in the area. I need to look at my notes, but I believe we also climbed a route in this area at easy .10 called Control Freak... Dec 12, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10c
A very good crack climb that has few of the usual red rock crimps. A few layoffs in the pod up high will get you past some otherwise painful moves. It has multiple rests so not fully sustained for the entire 120 feet however the top fat crack is stout. I agree with above gear comments - double set of all sizes 1/2 to 3 inches (triple in 3/4 to 1 inch range would have been nice) with a couple tiny cams and at least one big cam for the wide section. See photo sequence for a review of the route. Jan 8, 2011
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
This is probably one of the top ten 5.10 crack pitches at Red Rocks.

Here is the rack I would bring next time:

Single set of cams from green alien to #4fr

2x 0.3/0.4 C4
4x 0.5 C4
3x 0.75/1 C4

Just make sure you save the #3 and #4fr for the pod and the #2 for the roof finish. Oct 31, 2010
Chris S
 
Chris S  
 
An excellent route! Its amazing that a photo of it didn't make it into Handren's guide.

But the recommended rack ("standard rack up to 4 inches, extra .5-1 inch useful") works only if a standard rack is doubles of everything! Which is what I recommend for this route: NO stoppers, doubles of cams from 0.4-3", triple 0.5-1", and single 4" cam. 2-4 quickdraws and 1-2 shoulder length slings to extend pro in the o.w. and roof. Then send! Oct 1, 2009
Manjushri  
 
I climbed this a few years ago and went to it again on 1/31/09. When I stepped left and up into the second crack system, the chockstone that creates it moved significantly. I'm not sure if this was the case when I last climbed it, however, there was a hairline fracture in the stone that looked fairly new. Just a word of caution - the chock stone is jammed in there pretty good and will likely not come out, but when I hand jammed the crack it shifted. Any gear placed around it will run the chance of shifting as well and possibly pulling. Feb 2, 2009
Bill Bones  
 
This route is only 130 feet tall. A 70 meter will work. Great route. Had a blast on it. 10 c seems to sound about right. Nov 5, 2007
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c
glad i didnt read this before going out...would have blown the onsight.

great climb- we thought a 70m would work, that would have been nice to know! Dec 23, 2006
Aaron S
 
Aaron S  
 
Fwiw, the route is not 160'. I was able to rap it with a 70m with room to spare. Dec 16, 2006

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