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Routes in Out of Control Area

American Ninja T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Indirect Proof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Out of Control T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Remote Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.5 S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Randal Grandstaff, Dave Anderson 1978
Page Views: 1,476 total, 11/month
Shared By: rockratrei on Nov 20, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Start at a beautiful dihedral with a 2" crack for
~ 20', continue up over the roof, around the bulge, into the chimney, exit out onto the face
and follow face features to the 2 bolt anchor.

Location

Right of Out of Control

Protection

SR, double 60 m ropes

Photos

DylanJK
Berkeley, CA
DylanJK   Berkeley, CA
Heads up - huge loose blocks are still there. Jan 3, 2017
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.9
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Nice tight hands for <30 feet. Then face climbing with questionable rock. Jan 12, 2015
70 meter=230 feet. Divide by two, 115. Extra couple of feet lying on the ground, 105-110', max. I understudied for the Count on Sesame Street.

This route has a couple of massive loose blocks on it. I really enjoyed the pitch, but will caution that pulling too hard on some stuff could kill your partner pretty easily. If I get back out there, I want to work on the anchor, since the top bolt crossloads any biner clipped to it and it's building into a slingfest up there; maybe I'll take time to trundle the beasts, too. After moving my pack 50 feet away...

I used 3 #1s, a 2, a nut, and a 0 TCU to protect the pitch. More is available, just a heads up that there's a lot of #1 happening. Jan 23, 2012
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.9
This is a great route. Laser cut layoff at the start, cruise around some blocks, stem the chimney corner and face to the left so you never enter it and climb the final face and crack. A wonderful warm up for the crack right next door. Jan 8, 2011
Bill Bones  
 
another good route. The top is a bit runout but it is not the hard part of the route either. this route is also 130 feet. A 70 meter will work. Nov 5, 2007
Aaron S
 
Aaron S  
 
The first half is a super classic hand crack/corner. The second half is, uh, not so classic. May 3, 2007
Josh Audrey
LAS VEGAS
 
Josh Audrey   LAS VEGAS
 
you can lower with a 70 meter and have a top rope. Apr 21, 2007