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Routes in Out of Control Area

American Ninja T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Indirect Proof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Out of Control T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Remote Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.5 S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Paul Van Betten, Robert Finlay 1986
Page Views: 1,783 total, 14/month
Shared By: Bill Bones on Nov 5, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Above the middle terrace is an obvious clean cut red corner with a thin crack. Scramble up 50 feet to belay at the base of the corner. Climb the corner. Rap anchor at the top. Thin moves and thin protection but great climbing

Protection

up to #2 at the top RPs and other smaller stoppers

Photos

michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.10+
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Exciting and stimulating route. All in the feet. The rock on the left wall is crappy and fragile and the rock on the right wall is high quality. The gear placements are small stoppers and RPs after the #3 to protect the belayer. I found little good gear after the crux and ran out the route after the last stopper before the crux. The bottoming groove on the upper half would take small hand-sized or large finger-sized cams, but the rock quality seemed dubious and the placements shallow. By the time I would have plugged a piece, I had turned the lip. Safe if the rock is good. Could be dangerous if the rock is not. Jan 12, 2015
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
a #3 in a pocket down low is pretty nice to have- i didnt like any of the options for the #2...but if you're up there, you should have a #3 anyway since you are probably doing/have done Out of Control.... Mar 23, 2010
J. Thompson
denver, co
  5.11a
J. Thompson   denver, co
  5.11a
I have alittle trouble giving this 5.11a....it's realy just 1 maybe 2 moves....but they are 5.11 moves. So I'll call it 5.11, but I wouldn't argue against someone who said 5.10+.

josh Mar 22, 2010
Coz Teplitz
Watertown, MA
 
Coz Teplitz   Watertown, MA
 
I thought the climbing was fun, but this route is really all about 1 move. A star or two, but nowhere near as good as Out of Control. Jan 22, 2008
Bill Bones  
 
I though this route was a solid 11a, though the book gives it a 10c. Thin moves with amazing stem/friction moves in the crux. bring some small cams and stoppers. We placed a #2 in a pocket down low and also another #2 at the top after the crux. Great route. I gave this route 4 stars because it was a challenge in every aspect, Gear, Climbing, and setting. Nov 5, 2007