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Routes in Wailing Wall
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Burning Down the House T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cry Baby T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Intermezzo T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Martyr T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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North Arete S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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North Corner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Problem of Pain, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sabra T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Three Stigmata T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | K. Younge & B. Gillett, 2004 |
| Page Views: | 380 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Aug 1, 2020 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
Cry Baby is a good mixed route with a soled crux down low. Warm up before getting on this one.
Start on a few rectangular blocks standing about 3' above the Clivline Trail. The belayer must keep an eye on the leader and this ledge so as not to allow them to collide if the climber fails to get established before the second clip.
A tall climber can reach the first clip from the ledge, a short climber will want a stickclip, or a tall partner. Clip the first bolt, and head up and slightly right to get established on the line. With the first draw clipped, continue into the crux, heading up and right for the second clip. Make the second clip, and continue to head up and a bit more right for a second easier but still 5.10 crux. Very short climbers might find this second crux as hard as the first. Continue to the right of the 2nd and then the 3rd bolt and up into a left-leaning finger crack. Protect this well, and execute a 3rd 5.10 crux to get onto the top slab, again with a bog reach that those with short arm-spans might find just as hard as the 5.10d initial crux. Clip a 4th bolt, get up onto the slab, and then pedal up relatively easy climbing to a belay on the walkoff ledge. Hand-sized cams, a few large stoppers, or a very long cordalette around a rock provides a belay. There are no fixed anchors above this route.
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