Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
FA: | B. Gillett and K. Younge, 2004 |
Page Views: | 378 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Aug 1, 2020 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
By nature, this feels like more of a good boulder problem, followed by some dingy 0-start climbing, but you can't stop 1/2 way up the wall, so you either do it all, or nothing. The bottom looked compelling, so we did it all.
The climb starts with a bit of a crux getting established in the crack/corner. Pretty good gear presents itself once you are established and again right before the roof. At the roof, a second crux is solved with a slightly strenuous move that will get anyone of average height up and around the corner but leaves shorter folks (i.e. 5'2") feeling like 10a is quite a sandbag. Pop left around the corner, and put in a few more good pieces of gear, then stand up, and move left into another seam/crack. A 2 or 2.5" cam will go into an open spot in the crack (red and or yellow Camalot here) which is gear that protects the remaining climbing and should not be skipped. Head up the remainder of the dirty slab near that seam, protecting if you feel it is possible and good enough to be worth the effort, or step still further left past a small evergreen and into a right-facing corner, and head up to the walk-off ledge above.
The walk-off is a 2 minute affair down a short section of gully to climber's left and back to the base, 15 meters.
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