Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
FA: | B. Gillett & R. Briggs, 2004 |
Page Views: | 408 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Aug 1, 2020 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
North Arete is a solid route with solid rock. A cautious climber might want a medium-small nut in the crack before clipping the first bolt, though this is not crux climbing.
From the walkoff ledge, perhaps best reached by climbing Cry Baby (10d) which lies almost directly below, look up to a bolted line that rides the north arete and then the north face to a 2-bolt anchor. Start in a set of thin seams, and climb up and right towards the first of 7 bolts. A nut ~#9 BD or equivalent may protect that first sequence if desired. Climb rather casually to the 3rd bolt where the holds all disappear. Tiny crystals and smears for feet as well as tiny sidepull crimps for hands make the climbing up to and past the 4th bolt possible but never easy, heading left around the arete and back to the right side. Past the 4th bolt, the difficulty eases significantly, and the bolts are more widely spaced, but it never feels runout. Clip the 2 chain anchor and lower, or finish to the true summit via an optional fingercrack above, which I can not testify as to the quality of, having lowered off, myself.
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