Type: Sport, 85 ft (26 m)
FA: B. Gillett & R. Briggs, 2004
Page Views: 408 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 1, 2020
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

North Arete is a solid route with solid rock.  A cautious climber might want a medium-small nut in the crack before clipping the first bolt, though this is not crux climbing.

From the walkoff ledge, perhaps best reached by climbing Cry Baby (10d) which lies almost directly below, look up to a bolted line that rides the north arete and then the north face to a 2-bolt anchor. Start in a set of thin seams, and climb up and right towards the first of 7 bolts. A nut ~#9 BD or equivalent may protect that first sequence if desired. Climb rather casually to the 3rd bolt where the holds all disappear. Tiny crystals and smears for feet as well as tiny sidepull crimps for hands make the climbing up to and past the 4th bolt possible but never easy, heading left around the arete and back to the right side. Past the 4th bolt, the difficulty eases significantly, and the bolts are more widely spaced, but it never feels runout. Clip the 2 chain anchor and lower, or finish to the true summit via an optional fingercrack above, which I can not testify as to the quality of, having lowered off, myself.

Location Suggest change

Climb in from the left to reach the first of 7 bolts on the North Arete of the upper Tier of this crag. Follow the bolts up the obvious line to the chain anchors up above, 20' shy of the summit.

Protection Suggest change

A medium-small nut and 10 draws for the nut, bolts, and anchors. Gillett also suggests 1" cams if continuing past the anchors to the top, but he mentions ledgefall potential nonetheless.

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