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Routes in Wailing Wall

Burning Down the House T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Intermezzo T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Martyr T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Problem of Pain, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Stigmata T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: Gillett and Barndthouse
Page Views: 290 total, 6/month
Shared By: Andy Kowles on Aug 11, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This enjoyable and substantial pitch begins with a stout roof problem followed by sustained and funky 5.10 face climbing and then several finishing options. This mildly lichenous (climb it, folks) route starts from the middle of the cave-ledge bisecting the cliff. Set a bomber belay here after one of the approach pitches (we climbed Intermezzo).

We finished via the upper 10a corner with the old bong in it.

Excellent position and spectacular views from Auduban around to the NE plains.

Location

This has obvious roof moves out the right side of the nose of the wall, from the cave-ledge in the middle of the cliff.

Note: when adding this climb, I graded it the same as the guidebook/FA graded it.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 Camalot. Offset mastercams were nice. Perhaps bring an extra #1?

Photos

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Rick Vermeil
Erie, CO
  5.11c
Rick Vermeil   Erie, CO
  5.11c
This is a nice line, but I would not expect it to feel like 11a except for maybe a tall climber who can reach through to better jams before leaving the ledge. The crux is immediately off the belay with a not-so-great finger jam and a close-to-worthless undercling to crank yourself up on a real high foot that is way up under the overhang. You then have to lever all your body weight up off the jam and throw for a much better finger lock. Make a few more hard moves to get your feet up and standing upright. I have never climbed an 11- with such a powerful sequence. The route finding is tricky above the initial crack and the topo in Gillett's book is tough to decipher. I went left into a thin lieback move after the initial crack stopped then had to traverse across a horizontal to avoid a totally blank face above, but I think you are supposed to go right out of the first crack. Rack: bring doubles of #1 through 0.2 Camalots with a good set of nuts and a bunch of long runners. May 23, 2016