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Friend of the Devil
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3 from 4
votes
Early Access
Routes in Main Canyon
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Drug Test S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Drugs Are Nice S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Friend of the Devil S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Golden Egg, The T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Good Trouble S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Gunks Pump S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Horseshoes and Hand Grenades S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Jesus Liquid S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Kartoffel Kaiser S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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La Bruja S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Old Man and the Tree, The S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Perfection V5 6C |
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Prince of Peace S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Razor Hueco Arete - aka Razor Blades and Whipping Cream S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Resting Witch Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Rocca de Luna S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Show Her Your Stem T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Step Out Of Time S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Weave Your Spell S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Witches Eye aka Witching Hour? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Woof S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Working Hour, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 37.83924, -106.29425 |
| FA: | Bob D'Antonio and Cameron "Cam" Burns, April 1990 |
| Page Views: | 709 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) on Jul 12, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Friend of the Devil climbs a brown and tan wall. Per Mike Anderson: FOTD has sequential climbing on a panel of solid rock. This has exceptionally good footholds for San Luis Valley rock and mostly solid edges that you pull on, though there are at least two good pockets. The anchor is in a poor location, on the flat top of the fin, which is hard on your rope. I always step right after clipping the last bolt to use the drop in anchors on the new route to the right.
Location
This route lies just left of Witching Hour. Per Mike Anderson: FOTD is in the main canyon on a rock fin that hosts 6 routes, including "La Bruja" with the "Witch's Eye" that is the canyon's namesake. FOTD is the furthest route left on this wall.
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