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Routes in Main Canyon

Drug Test S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Drugs Are Nice S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Egg, The T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunks Pump S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jesus Liquid S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lunge for Jesus S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prince of Peace S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Razor Hueco Arete - aka Razor Blades and Whipping Cream S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weave Your Spell S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Witches Eye aka Witching Hour? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Witches' Tit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Woof S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 45 ft
FA: Tim Canon, Cliff Mallory
Page Views: 941 total · 8/month
Shared By: tom selleck on Sep 16, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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The route climbs the obvious crack in the middle of the face to two bolts and then the anchor. The crack is about 5.5 and the crux is a frictiony move or two at the bolts. The rock at the crux is of less than stellar quality but the worst rock is avoidable.

There is a decent route to the left of the Golden Egg that is easily toproped from the anchors. It's probably about 10a and has 3 bolts.


The Golden Egg is located well beyond Razor Hueco Arete. Keep following the dry creek bed until you get to an obvious rock bench that often has some water runnning over it. Hang a right here. The route will be obvious shortly.


Medium nuts and/or cams, 2 quickdraws.


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