GPS: 37.839, -106.294 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 29, 1999
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

The Main Canyon at Witches Canyon hosts over 50 routes all between 30 and 50 ft in height. Climbing starts shortly past the parking area with each of the side canyons hosting numerous routes. The Main Canyon is well forested and the shade afforded can be welcome when things are really cooking in Penitente. Difficulty in the Main Canyon spans the gamut from 5.8 to 5.13 and is usually on the fine grained tuffa found in Penitente itself. Scattered within the sport routes are numerous trad cracks, so bringing the rack is often a good option. Route numbering follows Bob D'Antonio's guide and begins with "Drug Test" as # 9 and follows sequentially up the canyon.

Getting There

About 100 yards past Lung for Jesus is a parking area with a small canyon on the right and the main canyon straight ahead. Several small drainages enter the main canyon from the right.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Gunks Pump
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Witches Eye aka Witching Hour?
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Witches' Tit
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gunks Pump
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Witches Eye aka Witching Hour?
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Witches' Tit
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Main Canyon »

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