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Routes in Main Canyon

Drug Test S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Drugs Are Nice S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Egg, The T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunks Pump S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jesus Liquid S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lunge for Jesus S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prince of Peace S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Razor Hueco Arete - aka Razor Blades and Whipping Cream S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weave Your Spell S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Witches Eye aka Witching Hour? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witches' Tit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Woof S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Description

The Main Canyon at Witches Canyon hosts over 50 routes all between 30 and 50 ft in height. Climbing starts shortly past the parking area with each of the side canyons hosting numerous routes. The Main Canyon is well forested and the shade afforded can be welcome when things are really cooking in Penitente. Difficulty in the Main Canyon spans the gamut from 5.8 to 5.13 and is usually on the fine grained tuffa found in Penitente itself. Scattered within the sport routes are numerous trad cracks, so bringing the rack is often a good option. Route numbering follows Bob D'Antonio's guide and begins with "Drug Test" as # 9 and follows sequentially up the canyon.

Getting There

About 100 yards past Lung for Jesus is a parking area with a small canyon on the right and the main canyon straight ahead. Several small drainages enter the main canyon from the right.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Golden Egg
Trad, Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gunks Pump
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witches Eye aka Witching Hour?
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Witches' Tit
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Golden Egg 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
Gunks Pump 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Witches Eye aka Witching Hour? 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Witches' Tit 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Main Canyon »

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