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Main Canyon

Colorado > San Luis Valley > Witches' Canyon

Description

The Main Canyon at Witches Canyon hosts over 50 routes all between 30 and 50 ft in height. Climbing starts shortly past the parking area with each of the side canyons hosting numerous routes. The Main Canyon is well forested and the shade afforded can be welcome when things are really cooking in Penitente. Difficulty in the Main Canyon spans the gamut from 5.8 to 5.13 and is usually on the fine grained tuffa found in Penitente itself. Scattered within the sport routes are numerous trad cracks, so bringing the rack is often a good option. Route numbering follows Bob D'Antonio's guide and begins with "Drug Test" as # 9 and follows sequentially up the canyon.

Getting There

About 100 yards past Lung for Jesus is a parking area with a small canyon on the right and the main canyon straight ahead. Several small drainages enter the main canyon from the right.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Woof
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Drug Test
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 22
Drugs Are Nice
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
The Golden Egg
Trad, Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Gunks Pump
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 1
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Jesus Liquid
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 16
Lunge for Jesus
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Prince of Peace
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 21
Razor Hueco Arete - aka Razor Bl…
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Weave Your Spell
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Witches Eye aka Witching Hour?
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
Witches' Tit
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Woof
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Drug Test
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Drugs Are Nice
 22
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Golden Egg
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
Gunks Pump
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades
 1
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Jesus Liquid
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Lunge for Jesus
 16
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Prince of Peace
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Razor Hueco Arete - aka Raz…
 21
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Weave Your Spell
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Witches Eye aka Witching Hour?
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Witches' Tit
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport