Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jay V
Page Views: 149 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jay V on Nov 15, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Prince of Peace is a bolted line that was put up in the traditional style, on lead with a hammer & hand drill while hanging from scary hooks. It is located far down the main canyon in the same branch as Gunks Pump. It is the route immediatel left of "The Golden Egg" 5.8, and shares the same top anchors. This route has some flair and surprising variety to it! Start on small edges and go straight up for 12 ft to the first bolt. Climb edges over a sloping ledge to the second bolt and a "Thank God" pocket. Continue up great slabby stuff to the 3rd bolt, then walk gently, keeping left (right gets manky!) for the thrilling runout to the anchors. If it looks runout, well it is. But there is no deck potential unless your belayer is slacking. Everything is mathmatically correct so you can have a fun, thrilling, yet safe climb. It's different from the common laboratory safe, bolt at yer waist, routes. With that known, you can also TR it if you lead Golden Egg to the anchors. But lead it before you leave or it will haunt you in your dreams!

Protection

3 QD's to double bolt anchors

Photos

We are just breaking into 5.10 world so we led the Golden Egg and then did Prince of Peace on toprope. What a great climb! Next time we're back, we WILL lead this climb! (Mike and Steve)

P.S. What a great website this is! Expect to hear more from us soon. Oct 15, 2003