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Routes in Main Canyon

Drug Test S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Drugs Are Nice S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Egg, The T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunks Pump S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jesus Liquid S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lunge for Jesus S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prince of Peace S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Razor Hueco Arete - aka Razor Blades and Whipping Cream S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weave Your Spell S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Witches Eye aka Witching Hour? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witches' Tit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Woof S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: B. Mullin, M. Tuttle, 1990
Page Views: 122 total, 1/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 11, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

As you follow up the main canyon trail, two drainages will be passed on the right. Just after the second and just off the trail is a clean slab with a tricky start. This little gem has a series of sharp edges and shallow pockets and makes a nice warm-up for the finger tweakers in the canyon. It is a bit run-out for 5.10.

Protection

Half a dozen draws and a rope.

Photos

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William Mondragon  
  5.10a
Badass slab! Best warmup in the canyon. May 13, 2012
NEH
  5.10-
NEH  
  5.10-
Fun but short route. One hard move to the slab, it felt 10- and didn't seem run out compared to others in the area. Dec 23, 2010
Mazel Mazel
Bishop, CA
  5.10a
Mazel Mazel   Bishop, CA
  5.10a
Nice route. But I wouldn't call it "stiff for the grade," or 5.9+, or 10b. If What the Hey is 9+ and Bucket Slave is 10b, then this climb strikes me as right in between: 10a. Jan 15, 2006
Hard move gaining the slab. Jun 1, 2004
tim naylor
  5.9+
tim naylor  
  5.9+
Good short route with a variety of moves and sloped pockets with just enough texture to keep the grade moderate. Jun 1, 2004
This a great route. It starts with easy climbing to a fun-awkward-balancy mantle, then finishes on a good slab. The climb seems a bit stiff for the grade. Dec 12, 2001