Regular Route
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British X
| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| GPS: | 36.48535, -121.19776 |
| FA: | David Brower, Herve Voge and George Rockwood April 1934 |
| Page Views: | 537 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Bruce Hildenbrand on Jun 17, 2020 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Description
This is a very bold lead but it is a Pinnacles classic. All the holds are there, but a safe ascent requires excellent route finding skills to find the easiest passage upwards. Failure to do so could have dire consequences.
Climb up the face below the South Finger heading for the notch between the North Finger and South Finger.
Some parties choose to belay here as rope drag on the devious, unprotected face above is not recommended. There is a bolt and a boulder which can be slung for anchors.
Climb down the notch until you can find a way to gain the west face. Proceed up the west face weaving back and forth to reach the summit and a two bolt anchor with chains. Rappel 95' back to the base of the climb.



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