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Saltimbanco
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British
Avg: 1 from 2
votes
Routes in Lakeside Rock - West Face
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An Eye for an Eye And a Route for a Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Coyote Eggs T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fat Man's Folly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Laura Scudders T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Parental Guidance Suggested T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Saltimbanco T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Shit Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Thin Man's Nightmare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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X-Rated Tits T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 30 ft (9 m) |
| GPS: | 34.03094, -116.14376 |
| FA: | Todd Gordon 2/1988 |
| Page Views: | 706 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Sean on Nov 4, 2019 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Straight-in crack that splits a steep slab face behind a pine tree. Located approx 200 yards right (south) of Laura Scudders on the east face of adjacent formation, which is the backside of the long and low loaf that one walking northward on the main trail passes just before getting to Lakeside Rock. 1992 Vogel book calls this Hardly Rock. Saltimbanco is rated 5.7 in Bartlett's Central JT book, but seems much easier. Felt more awkward than hard, and no harder than say Route 66 in N Wonderland. Todd usu good and fair with ratings. We were left quite aghast. Maybe extra awkward for the tall?
Descent
Walk off by going around the summit blocks to climber's right to get to the backside (west face overlooking Barker Dam Trail) and down a few easy but exposed slab moves to a slope that soon turns into a proper ledge. Follow that to skier's right and cut through a wide gap that leads back to the east facing side, and then scramble off to touch down behind another pine tree about 20 yards to the side of the start.
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