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Routes in Lakeside Rock - West Face

An Eye for an Eye And a Route for a Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coyote Eggs T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fat Man's Folly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Laura Scudders T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Parental Guidance Suggested T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shit Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Thin Man's Nightmare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
X-Rated Tits T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dave Houser, Jan McCollum and Bob Malloy, 1978
Page Views: 1,313 total, 7/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 12, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

Begin near the right side of the previously mentioned roof and climb a slab up to the base of the roof. Set a piece (small cams work well) and pull the roof (crux) exiting onto more slabby face. From here seven bolts lead up and then left and up to a bolted anchor/rap.

Almost a sport route except for the piece needed under the roof, this is a well-protected climb that has good moves on good rock. If you have a 50 meter rope be careful as the rap is about 85'.

Location

This climb lies more or less in the center of the slabby west face (this is the one seen on the approach). A prominent roof will be seen low down in the center of the formation as will a wide light-colored dike higher up and to the right.

Protection

7 bolts, pro to 1", bolted anchor/rap (all bolts 3/8").

Photos

Adam Kimmerly
  5.10b PG13
Adam Kimmerly  
  5.10b PG13
I counted 6 bolts, but stupid me missed the third one 'cause I couldn't see it from the second bolt and ended up running it out straight to the fourth one. Didn't realize it until I clipped the 4th and looked back down and right to see the third. It did cut down on rope drag though!

I almost bailed at the start after not feeling so cozy about the fall, but figured out a solid sequence and was able to climb through. it gets easier as you progress, but still keeps you thinking with a combination of crimping and smearing. Well worth the effort if your in the area and solid enough at the grade to not fall off the move over the lip. Mar 23, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10b
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10b
Old Vogel guide indicates a bolt below the roof on the slab. Untrue however, the baby roof can be protected with a 2" cam & medium wire to protect. Cool move, but yikes.

60 meter cord does the trick to anchor and down.

Enjoy. Jan 20, 2007
Mike Hack  
 
Great climb! Solid friction and good rock throughout. A couple thought provoking moves after the roof crux keep it interesting. Apr 11, 2005
Graham Roff  
 
A good route, but the rock feels a little loose in places. Seemed harder and more sustained than Run For Your Life and definitely more heady (steep friction versus edging making the difference I guess).You want to be strong at the grade before attempting the roof move as a fall just above would be ugly.Be sure to extend the draws at the start and end of the slight traverse or you will be fighting bad rope drag near the end. Apr 10, 2005
Murf
  5.10b
Murf  
  5.10b
Stays as good no matter how many times you've done it. Mar 14, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10b
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10b
nice! Jan 21, 2005
Bo Johnston
  5.10b
Bo Johnston  
  5.10b
First time I climbed this I pussed on the crux lip. We climbed X-Tits and TRed it and I figured out the toe work and came back to lead it (and pucker) another year and loved the feeling. Such a great route with a beautiful view. Dec 16, 2004
Randy
 
Randy  
 
The move going over the roof (the crux) gets your attention right away. You would not want to blow this move (and fall onto the slab below). Feb 10, 2004
Woody Stark  
 
A wonderful route. The upper friction and edging is a joy. Feb 9, 2004