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> Joshua Tree NP
> Central Joshua…
> Barker Dam Area
> Lakeside Rock
> Lakeside Rock - W Face
Thin Man's Nightmare
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R
Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Lakeside Rock - West Face
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An Eye for an Eye And a Route for a Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Coyote Eggs T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fat Man's Folly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Laura Scudders T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Parental Guidance Suggested T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Saltimbanco T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Shit Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Thin Man's Nightmare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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X-Rated Tits T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| GPS: | 34.03094, -116.14376 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 810 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Woody Stark on Jan 8, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route ascends the wide crack to the left of Coyote Eggs. Use the narrow ramp that ascends right to left to enter the bottom of the crack. Small wires are necessary to protect the next few feet until the crack widens. You'll find two mysterious bolts beneath the overhang at the top. The overhang is the crux. I've led this route numerous times and always enjoyed it. One more thing, there's a bolt on the lower face to protect the friction moves getting to the ramp.
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