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Routes in Lakeside Rock - West Face

An Eye for an Eye And a Route for a Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coyote Eggs T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fat Man's Folly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Laura Scudders T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Parental Guidance Suggested T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shit Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Thin Man's Nightmare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
X-Rated Tits T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 63 total, 0/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Jan 8, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route ascends the wide crack to the left of Coyote Eggs. Use the narrow ramp that ascends right to left to enter the bottom of the crack. Small wires are necessary to protect the next few feet until the crack widens. You'll find two mysterious bolts beneath the overhang at the top. The overhang is the crux. I've led this route numerous times and always enjoyed it. One more thing, there's a bolt on the lower face to protect the friction moves getting to the ramp.

Protection

Be sure to take along the wee wires.

Photos

Woody Stark  
 
I don't believe this route gets much attention which is too bad. It has a number of interesting moves of varying catagories and poses some pro problems. Whenever I'm at Lakeside Rock with newbies to the area, I usually take them up this route, and they enjoy it. Mar 14, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9
Did this with TanSlacks and Woody today. The Woodman lead. The rock is a bit chossy, coming up third I looked for areas to place gear should I choose to lead and there were not many solid areas. Small cams, RP's would work but marginal at best. At the crux it would accept good, solid pro........The first bolt before the chimney is a real beauty of a rusted quarter inch buttonhead. All in all a fun route with some decent moves and I am happy Woody lead it................ Jan 21, 2005