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Routes in Lakeside Rock - West Face

An Eye for an Eye And a Route for a Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coyote Eggs T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fat Man's Folly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Laura Scudders T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Parental Guidance Suggested T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shit Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Thin Man's Nightmare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
X-Rated Tits T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Matt Cox, Randy Vogel and Shawn Curtis, 1976
Page Views: 2,037 total · 10/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 12, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: NEW RESTRICTIONS Details

Description

In the center of the wall is a prominent roof that lies low on the formation. This climb starts just right of where the roof ends at a right-slanting groove.

Two bolts lead up the groove into left-slanting cracks on a dike. When the dike makes a sharp turn to the right step left to a bolted anchor/rap station.

If climbing with a 50 meter rope be careful as the distance to the ground is about 85'. Another memorable climb with a very memorable name.

EDIT: As one might guess, there is a story behind the name... The summer before this route was established, Matt Cox (then about 15 or 16 years old) had gone with a few other climbers to the small local movie theater (the "Rustic Theater") in Idyllwild on for a bit of Saturday night diversion. The movie was rated "R" and had a scene in it where a woman's breasts were shown. Matt, overcome by the sight, exclaimed in quite a loud voice "Wow! Those are the first R rated tits I've ever seen." The audience laughed, as did local climbers for weeks afterwards. The route name was a small tribute to a humorous moment. -Randy

Protection

2 bolts (3/8"), pro to 2", bolted anchor/rap

Photos

Randy
 
Randy  
 
Did this recently again and not a bad climb. 2 of 5 stars. Feb 6, 2003
Ladies that I know have a firm opinion on this route(not what you might think). There is an inverse relationship between height and rating here. If I was an inch shorter, this sucker would be a 10B. Ergo, as I'm getting older and shorter, I dread climbing this route. Jun 12, 2003
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9
Fun lead. Protects well. Easy 5.9.... Jan 21, 2005
Karen Bohl
Prescott
  5.10b
Karen Bohl   Prescott
  5.10b
Well, this is the rating I would give this climb. It is definately not easy if you are under 5'4. In order to pull off the crux, I had to go out on thin face and do some very delicate moves. I did not like this climb. Jan 22, 2005
gnat
  5.8
gnat  
  5.8
if you are taller than 6'4" or so, the route is significantly easier and thus: so high of quality that it deserves 5 of 5 stars. Jan 24, 2005
And for so many of us who are 7'0" or over, its even easier. Jan 2, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.9
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.9
Old Vogel guide indicates only 1 bolt. There are actually two then the anchors that share with "Eye for an eye, route for a route". Start of route can be protected easily with a 3.5" cam 1.5" cam, or stoppers a bit further up until you reach the first bolt. Getting past the 2nd bolt seemed a bit reachy for me and definitely required me to use my feet to gain the height.

I went slightly left towards the tooth and wish I had a 1" cam because I'm puss. Not like the fall was far as the last bolt was all of 3 1/2 feet below, going for the anchors is easy ground run out but who cares. Russ went slightly left and straight up over the "roof" and made it look easy. If you were to do it that way and wanted pro, bring a 2" cam to protect the slot. Again, the last bolt is close...not like you're going anywhere.

Full sun in the winter makes for a nice afternoon destination.

My ego is keeping the rating as 5.9 but I agree with Locker...kinda easy for the grade Jan 20, 2007
ssp
ssp  
Climbed this one bout 20 yrs ago and the first bolt looked like the original : Half hangin out, rusty spinner hanger.
A little gripped when I got to it since I had said " I'll just run it up to that bolt should be fine"
Wonder if it ever got replaced ???? Oct 25, 2011

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