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> Joshua Tree Nat…
> Barker Dam Area
> Lakeside Rock
> Lakeside Rock - West Face
X-Rated Tits
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1.8 from 19
votes
Routes in Lakeside Rock - West Face
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An Eye for an Eye And a Route for a Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Coyote Eggs T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fat Man's Folly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Laura Scudders T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Parental Guidance Suggested T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shit Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Thin Man's Nightmare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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X-Rated Tits T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft |
| FA: | Matt Cox, Randy Vogel and Shawn Curtis, 1976 |
| Page Views: | 2,007 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Jul 12, 2002 |
| Admins: | C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Description
In the center of the wall is a prominent roof that lies low on the formation. This climb starts just right of where the roof ends at a right-slanting groove.
Two bolts lead up the groove into left-slanting cracks on a dike. When the dike makes a sharp turn to the right step left to a bolted anchor/rap station.
If climbing with a 50 meter rope be careful as the distance to the ground is about 85'. Another memorable climb with a very memorable name.
EDIT: As one might guess, there is a story behind the name... The summer before this route was established, Matt Cox (then about 15 or 16 years old) had gone with a few other climbers to the small local movie theater (the "Rustic Theater") in Idyllwild on for a bit of Saturday night diversion. The movie was rated "R" and had a scene in it where a woman's breasts were shown. Matt, overcome by the sight, exclaimed in quite a loud voice "Wow! Those are the first R rated tits I've ever seen." The audience laughed, as did local climbers for weeks afterwards. The route name was a small tribute to a humorous moment. -Randy
Two bolts lead up the groove into left-slanting cracks on a dike. When the dike makes a sharp turn to the right step left to a bolted anchor/rap station.
If climbing with a 50 meter rope be careful as the distance to the ground is about 85'. Another memorable climb with a very memorable name.
EDIT: As one might guess, there is a story behind the name... The summer before this route was established, Matt Cox (then about 15 or 16 years old) had gone with a few other climbers to the small local movie theater (the "Rustic Theater") in Idyllwild on for a bit of Saturday night diversion. The movie was rated "R" and had a scene in it where a woman's breasts were shown. Matt, overcome by the sight, exclaimed in quite a loud voice "Wow! Those are the first R rated tits I've ever seen." The audience laughed, as did local climbers for weeks afterwards. The route name was a small tribute to a humorous moment. -Randy
Yucca Valley, CA
Prescott
Joshua Tree
I went slightly left towards the tooth and wish I had a 1" cam because I'm puss. Not like the fall was far as the last bolt was all of 3 1/2 feet below, going for the anchors is easy ground run out but who cares. Russ went slightly left and straight up over the "roof" and made it look easy. If you were to do it that way and wanted pro, bring a 2" cam to protect the slot. Again, the last bolt is close...not like you're going anywhere.
Full sun in the winter makes for a nice afternoon destination.
My ego is keeping the rating as 5.9 but I agree with Locker...kinda easy for the grade Jan 20, 2007
A little gripped when I got to it since I had said " I'll just run it up to that bolt should be fine"
Wonder if it ever got replaced ???? Oct 25, 2011