X-Rated Tits
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Matt Cox, Randy Vogel and Shawn Curtis, 1976 |
Page Views: | 3,301 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | C Miller on Jul 12, 2002 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Two bolts lead up the groove into left-slanting cracks on a dike. When the dike makes a sharp turn to the right step left to a bolted anchor/rap station.
Another memorable climb with a memorable name.
Location
In the center of the wall is a prominent roof that lies low on the formation. This climb starts just right of where the roof ends at a right-slanting groove.
About the name...
As one might guess, there is a story behind the name... The summer before this route was established, Matt Cox (then about 15 or 16 years old) had gone with a few other climbers to the small local movie theater (the "Rustic Theater") in Idyllwild on for a bit of Saturday night diversion. The movie was rated "R" and had a scene in it where a woman's breasts were shown. Matt, overcome by the sight, exclaimed in quite a loud voice "Wow! Those are the first R rated tits I've ever seen." The audience laughed, as did local climbers for weeks afterwards. The route name was a small tribute to a humorous moment. - Randy Vogel
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