X-Rated Tits
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 34.03094, -116.14376 |
| FA: | Matt Cox, Randy Vogel and Shawn Curtis, 1976 |
| Page Views: | 3,408 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Jul 12, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Two bolts lead up the groove into left-slanting cracks on a dike. When the dike makes a sharp turn to the right step left to a bolted anchor/rap station.
Another memorable climb with a memorable name.
Location
In the center of the wall is a prominent roof that lies low on the formation. This climb starts just right of where the roof ends at a right-slanting groove.
About the name...
As one might guess, there is a story behind the name... The summer before this route was established, Matt Cox (then about 15 or 16 years old) had gone with a few other climbers to the small local movie theater (the "Rustic Theater") in Idyllwild on for a bit of Saturday night diversion. The movie was rated "R" and had a scene in it where a woman's breasts were shown. Matt, overcome by the sight, exclaimed in quite a loud voice "Wow! Those are the first R rated tits I've ever seen." The audience laughed, as did local climbers for weeks afterwards. The route name was a small tribute to a humorous moment. - Randy Vogel



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