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Routes in Lakeside Rock - West Face

An Eye for an Eye And a Route for a Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coyote Eggs T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fat Man's Folly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Laura Scudders T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Parental Guidance Suggested T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shit Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Thin Man's Nightmare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
X-Rated Tits T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Mike Orr, Brad Johnston 1976
Page Views: 1,075 total · 6/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Nov 19, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This route begins about forty feet right of X-rated Tits. Climb the left leaning groove and the higher crack system. This is a good route for a novice leader. It was my daughter's first lead at this level of difficulty.


standard rack


Bo Johnston  
Not sustained at the grade but a fun way to make it up the Lakeside Rock. Good pro and quality rock makes this less than a bomb and worth climbing. Feb 5, 2005
Ryan Kelly
Ryan Kelly   work.
Agreed with most of above - decent rock, not sustained (not even sure where the 5.8 move is), adequate protection, perhaps interesting enough - good early lead for someone. Oct 13, 2008
Rodger Raubach
Rodger Raubach  
The 5.8 (?) move comes low down on the route and is easily protected by a small tricam. No "mental crux" for a rookie leader, and just a nice fun climb. Enjoy! Sep 8, 2010
Artem Lebedev
Santa Monica, CA
Artem Lebedev   Santa Monica, CA
Strongly disagree. This is NOT a beginner's lead. The crack portion of it is barely 5.8. The friction slab above the crack is plain dangerous. No matter how you spin it, there is no place for any kind of pro once you exit the crack system, but you still have half of the climb left. Granted, it is probably 5.6-5.7 friction, but you hit the ground if you slip. You gotta be very comfortable with slabs to lead this one. Mar 17, 2014
John Ely
John Ely   DC
I don't want to start an argument with Artem, but as I recall - see the beta pics - it is easy to get a couple aliens or c3s in the arching crack in the upper slab. By Josh standards this is pg even up there. Apr 2, 2014
Kelly Corbin  
This route is more than 70 feet, it's probably closer to 110 feet. We walked off to the left, using Bighorn Sheep pellets as cairns. Great route. The upper half of the climb takes small gear. Jul 30, 2014

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