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Routes in Hardscrabble Wall
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American Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Cast of Characters T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chicken T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chrome Sister T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crystal Hunter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Dangerous Breed T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Divine Wind T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Electric Everything T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Exodus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fisticuffs TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Goldfingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gym Droids T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Inner Vision T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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It Takes a Thief S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Life as We Know It T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Log Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mind Games T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Miss Adventure T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mountaineer's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Nouveau Riche T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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P.C. TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Primordial Soup T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Punters in Paradise T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Red Fox T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Red Sun Rising T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Reingirl's Diheazy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Screensaver T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sisters of Mercury T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tapestry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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What's Your Motive? S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Windows of Your Mind T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Winds of War S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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You Crane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 45.38985, -122.45609 |
| FA: | Tim Olson, Greg Lyon, 4/89 |
| Page Views: | 1,222 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Ball on Aug 14, 2019 |
| Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Nate Ball |
Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure
Details
Description
This is probably most often climbed as an easy way to setup a top-rope for Mind Games. There are multiple variations.
To keep this at 5.7, do not climb it the way Olson's guidebook indicates. Climb up to the first bolt and layback the crack up to the roof and step right. Pull onto the midway ledge, clip the bolt (probably want an extra-long runner here), then scoot left around the corner onto the slab. Shimmy your way horizontally across this for about 20' until you encounter a left-arching thin crack. Find the hidden jug, step left, then prepare for the final move. The holds are all there but it's a strenuous pull. Once over this final bulge, scramble upwards to the black Metolius rap hangers. Lower off your own gear or rappel straight down and you'll go over the Mind Games crux roof.
Alternative 1 (5.8?): Take the line indicated in Olson's guidebook; step left where the hand crack cuts right under the roof. Try not to step on the obvious "diving board" feature as it's loose. Pull up into the slot then make an awkward, reachy move to get over the bulge. The above route description joins here.
Alternative 2 (5.9?): From the midway ledge, climb the Gym Droids extension to the new anchor. Stemming and technical but not-too-hard moves get to a small ledge. Do not pull on the big loose chunks - they're not necessary anyway.
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