Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Wayne Wallace, Robert McGown, 1/89
Page Views: 217 total · 17/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Dec 6, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure Details

Description

Scramble up to a low ledge, step right, then climb a brief undulating crack to where it joins with Nouveau Riche. Take a brief detour around the thin crack and back left as it widens at another stance. Punch it up into the wide crack that thins to hands, then to fingers. Make use of some convenient features for hands and feet on either side. Get your butt up against the horn then make a final pull up to the ledge.

Location

Just left of Nouveau Riche, up the right side of the Guillotine Flakes

Protection

Gear to 2"

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9+
This route is described in Olson's PRC book as traversing right into Nouveau Riche before the overhang. Obviously it had been done to the top of the cliff before, though this required a long traverse right along the top of the cliff to the NR anchor. A dedicated anchor for CoC was installed 12/17 at the ledge above the overhang, so now there is no reason not to do the fun moves through the upper crack, which probably aren't even the crux. Dec 7, 2017
Isaac
Portland
 
Isaac   Portland
 
I definitely felt the crux of the climb was not the roof, but about 20 feet off the deck, above the first ledge. The hand jam is solid. The fist is a reach, but solid. The constriction at the top of this feature to exit felt tenuous and the feet mediocre. From here the climbing eases to the roof, which was really fun and protects well with large gear (I placed a #4 below). When removing the #4, I did notice a hornet and small nest, so take care when moving through this section. Jul 19, 2018