Type: Sport, 750 ft (227 m), 8 pitches
GPS: 45.93357, 6.83771
FA: Piola, 2007
Page Views: 2,104 total · 27/month
Shared By: Ryan Marsters on Jul 23, 2019
Admins: Bogdan Petre, David Riley, Luc-514

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Description Suggest change

A great line directly beneath the lift. The moves and climbing are engaging throughout. As with most of Piola's routes, expect excellent bolting at the grade and up to 7-m/20-ft spacing a couple grades lower.

P1 (25 m, 5.10a). Trend up and left to a ledge.
P2 (30 m, 5.10c). Again, up and slightly left through a couple small roofs.
P3 (35 m, 5.10d). Left and up. Ride a shallow arete, pull into a dihedral (crux) and continue up with the occasional route finding problem.
P4 (15m, 5.11a/b). A crimpy sequence cuts left under the roof (cross a newer route) and climbs the friendlier left side.
P5 (35 m, 5.10d). Little roof on left to start followed by a shallow dihedral.
P6 (25m, 5.11a). Easier ground leads to a big roof. The roof is difficult to read but reasonable once you figure it out. Continue up face to anchors.
P7 (30 m, 5.10c, reasonable to combine with P8 with enough draws). Featured face climbing gradually eases off. There's a belay on right in a gully after 30 m, a belay up and left around 35 m, or just continue up P8.
P8 (20 m, 5.9). Climb the vague and blocky prow to a drilled wire or bolts on top and beneath the lift station deck.

Scramble down the other side of the prow and cross beneath the lift station on a trail.

Location Suggest change

The start is on Brevent South Face. From the top station, descend through the Breche du Brevent and pick up the climber trail that wraps around the base of the cliff. Pass below the start for Frison Roche with likely 10 parties queued up, go through a series of fixed lines, and look for a deep chimney at the base/start of the South Face perhaps 20 m past the ropes.

Just left of the chimney are two close bolt lines trending up and left. The right is La fin de babylone and the left is a new route.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts and fixed anchors. A dozen draws are plenty, more if you link.

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