Poeme a Lou
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
| Type: | Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 45.96844, 6.87318 |
| FA: | Karen and Francois Pallandre 2003 |
| Page Views: | 468 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Carson Mogush on Jun 21, 2023 |
| Admins: | Bogdan P, David Riley, Luc-514 |
Description
An overall fun route that is bolted quite reasonably and follows interesting features with good and sustained climbing. Although a bit chossy at times, this adds to the fun. Expect excellent views of the Mont Blanc Massif across the valley and the potential for crowds.
P1) The route begins following bolts off the ground onto slabby terrain into a short but interesting roof section trending rightward 45m (10b).
P2) Follow a traversing and slabby line of bolts up interesting face climbing to a leftward traverse beneath a big roof and below the bolted line of Fin de Babylone 40m (10c).
P3) Continue in the left leaning dihedral to an overhang surmounted by high feet and side pulls. Follow the line of bolts to another roof and overcome the crux of this pitch 30m (10+).
P4) Continue leftward into a giant changing corner dihedral with a fixed line. You can either free this corner traverse at 11a although the fixed rope will be seriously in your way. Or use the fixed rope at A0 and complete the rest of the pitch trending leftward for 50m (10a A0 or 11a).
P5) Easier slab climbing ends in a lichen covered ridge with the final anchor, enjoy the wonderful views and fun moves 50m (5.9).
To descend simply scramble uphill for 3 mins and take the Brevent lift back down.
Location
Take the Brevent lift to the top then descend the track taken by skiers to the east. Then follow a faint path down into a treacherous gully. Descend this until you see some fixed ropes up to a raised plateau skier's right. continue up loose scree slopes to the base of the main Brevent face. You will see a metal sign indicating Poeme a Lou, the route begins here.



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