Type: Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
GPS: 45.96844, 6.87318
FA: Karen and Francois Pallandre 2003
Page Views: 468 total · 12/month
Shared By: Carson Mogush on Jun 21, 2023
Admins: Bogdan P, David Riley, Luc-514

You & This Route


12 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

An overall fun route that is bolted quite reasonably and follows interesting features with good and sustained climbing. Although a bit chossy at times, this adds to the fun. Expect excellent views of the Mont Blanc Massif across the valley and the potential for crowds. 

P1) The route begins following bolts off the ground onto slabby terrain into a short but interesting roof section trending rightward 45m (10b).

P2) Follow a traversing and slabby line of bolts up interesting face climbing to a leftward traverse beneath a big roof and below the bolted line of Fin de Babylone 40m (10c).

P3) Continue in the left leaning dihedral to an overhang surmounted by high feet and side pulls. Follow the line of bolts to another roof and overcome the crux of this pitch 30m (10+).

P4) Continue leftward into a giant changing corner dihedral with a fixed line. You can either free this corner traverse at 11a although the fixed rope will be seriously in your way. Or use the fixed rope at A0 and complete the rest of the pitch trending leftward for 50m (10a A0 or 11a).

P5) Easier slab climbing ends in a lichen covered ridge with the final anchor, enjoy the wonderful views and fun moves 50m (5.9).

To descend simply scramble uphill for 3 mins and take the Brevent lift back down.

Location Suggest change

Take the Brevent lift to the top then descend the track taken by skiers to the east. Then follow a faint path down into a treacherous gully. Descend this until you see some fixed ropes up to a raised plateau skier's right. continue up loose scree slopes to the base of the main Brevent face. You will see a metal sign indicating Poeme a Lou, the route begins here.

Protection Suggest change

14 quickdraws, bolted anchors

Photos

0 Comments