Avg: 3.4 from 10 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 650 ft (197 m), 7 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||2,715 total · 25/month|
|Shared By:||Aerili on Aug 7, 2013|
|Admins:||Euan Cameron, Luc-514, David Riley|
The traditional first pitch (which we skipped) almost seems like a separate single pitch route due to a long section of 3rd class above it which can be hiked. This first pitch is bolted and goes at 6b (10c).
Above this, hike up a steep slope to the left-facing dihedral just right of a black water streak. The slope contains a lot of loose scree, so move with care.
P2: Stem, face climb, and occasionally jam up the corner to a mostly-hanging bolted belay. The corner climbs better than it looks and is well protected with gear. Rated 6a+ (10b) but seemed more like 5.9.
P3: Thin and committing smearing and edging continues up the dihedral. The crux comes right off the belay, eases slightly in the middle, and throws a last hard move near the end. Sustained 6b (10c). Well protected with lots of small gear. Bolted belay on a nice ledge.
P4: A physical liebacking start eases into steep but short 5.8 climbing to finish off the long corner to a massive ledge. Walk back 30-40 feet to a bolted belay. 6a+ (10b)
From here you have three finishing options: Ex Libris continues to the far left (move belay) via two more pitches. We didn't do these since they apparently have some loose rock and the quality degrades in general. Straight above the belay is a bolted 12- pitch. Or you can move the belay to the far right and finish on the Voie Frison-Roche's last pitch, a bolted crack rated 5.9 which is good quality and solid rock (this was our choice).
This route can also be viewed during the cable car ride. Look for the long dihedral just right of the black water streak at about 1 or 2 o'clock as you near the top of Brevent.
You top out the route on the peak of Brevent and it is an easy walk back to the platform. Don't miss the last car (time varies by season).
While this route can be climbed with a 60 m rope, if you need to bail due to weather it is possible only a 70 m may reach. We used double 60 m ropes. Rappelling the route is easy to do if necessary.
In early season, boots and crampons are necessary for the approach.