Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Le Brévent

Crakoukass S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ex Libris T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Somone S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Label Virginie, 250m, 5c, Plan Praz / Brevent S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Voie Frison-Roche S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 650 ft, 6 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,557 total, 84/month
Shared By: Seleucus on Jul 15, 2012
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

You & This Route


24 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route is a true classic in the Aiguille Rouges. It maintains a fairly consistently difficulty throughout. The 4th and 5th pitches are real beauties with fantastic cracks somewhat anomalous for the Aiguilles Rouges.

Pitch 1 (5.10-): The first pitch moves from a bolt on the face at the end of the approach path. From here, the climb move up the pillar and follows the bolt line. One or two difficult moves lead to a grassy ledge at the end of which is a belay before the next vertical section.

Pitch 2 (5.8): Go up straight and then traverse right until you reach the belay ledge.

Pitch 3 (5.9): This short pitch goes up a broken but juggy crack system with somewhat loose holds.


Pitch 4 (5.10-): Go up the bolt line on a slabby face until you reach a 10m vertical crack. Pull through this crack, the crux, and belay at the top.



Pitch 5 (4th class): From the belay go to the left and then right until you reach the obvious dihedral with a big crack in the center of it.

Pitch 6 (5.9): Climb up the crack in the center of the dihedral pulling through a few difficult sections to reach the belay at the top.

Location

The easiest way to reach the route is to take the Telepherique to Planpraz and then to Brevent. From here follow the main trail north. At the col continue east (along the ski piste) toward Chamonix. At the second switchback leave the trail and follow a trail of cairns to the trending toward the rock face. At the end of the trail, you'll see a bolt at the base.

From the top, you can walk to the telepherique by going left along the top of the cliff. You can take the telepherique down back to Chamonix. Alternatively you can hike to Planpraz and from there to Chamonix.

Protection

Very well bolted.

Guidebooks

The following guidebooks have descriptions of this route (and typically many others in the region).

English Language
Les Aiguilles Rouges Volume 1 (Michel Piola)

French
Plasir West (Jürg von Känel)
Escalades Choisies: Mont-Blanc, Aiguilles Rouges (Glenant)
Les Aiguilles Rouges (Thomas Dulac and Godefroy Perroux)
patrick kadel
  5.10a
patrick kadel  
  5.10a
A quick bit of info if you are going to do this:

- There are two bolts at the summit and at every belay. Other than quickdraws no other gear is needed.
- To start the route you find the belay bolt at the end of the trail but then traverse left about 15 feet to get on the route. There are earlier bolts that sucked me up a dirty chimney. If you are climbing a clean face for pitch one you are on it.
- I thought the crux was on Pitch 1. I'll go with easy 10a. After this pitch there are no moves harder then 5.9.
- Absolute blast watching the wingsuit jumpers fly by...we had 6 of them during the climb.
- Morning sun, mostly solid rock, comfortably bolted. Enjoyable. Aug 31, 2016
Jordan K
Ohio
  5.10
Jordan K   Ohio
  5.10
Fun climb with a couple of fantastic pitches of crack climbing (P4 & P6). The rest was good but not outstanding in my mind. The route wanders a bit as it traverses and sometimes it was hard to spot the next bolt as they seemed to blend perfectly with the color of the rock (middle of P4 if I remember correctly). The route is well-bolted, but not nearly as closely spaced as its neighbor, Crakoukass, which is over-bolted frankly. The final belay at the summit had only one bolt, with the other one missing a hanger. I was able to rig something off a large nearby boulder though.
Fantastic views of the valley and Mont Blanc across the way.
When we arrived (around noon), there were 6+ parties on the route above us and we waited some 2-3 hours for the traffic jam to clear before being able to climb (late July '15). I don't know if this is typical or not, but it was definitely sub-optimal. We barely made it to the top in time for the last cablecar down! There were a couple of other routes nearby (to climber's right) that other parties were climbing while we waited, but I have no beta/rating -- although I believe they were somewhat harder than Frison-Roche.
Two first-evers for me: I saw a BASE jumper swoosh by overhead while climbing this route, plus I was passed by a free-soloist... I guess that's Chamonix for you!

Update: Came back Aug '17 and found it just as crowded as ever... again stressed to make the last cable car down. I guess I'm a slow learner... Anchor a the top is indeed replaced.

Beta photos of tons of other routes nearby, although mostly trad and mostly a good bit harder can be found here:
herve.thivierge.pagesperso-…
Another great resource, although large in French is camptocamp.org Aug 9, 2015