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Routes in Le Brévent

Crakoukass S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ex Libris T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Somone S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Label Virginie, 250m, 5c, Plan Praz / Brevent S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Voie Frison-Roche S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 600 ft, 7 pitches
FA: M. Franc, J. Franc, M. Meot, 2001
Page Views: 132 total · 21/month
Shared By: Sean Maher on Jul 11, 2017
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

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Description

An easier and similarly popular companion to Crakoukass, this route also links up pitches on a number of crags running up the slope below the Brevent cable car station. It would make a great first outing in Chamonix or a consolation prize when the bigger routes have been humbling. It dries quickly and can be climbed when wet.

P1) 5.5, 20 m, Climb a cracked face at a friendly angle to the top of a small pillar.

P1.5) Downclimb the back of the pillar (~5.2, 2m) and walk down the gully ~7m to reach a bolt

P2) 5.7, 25 m, Climb fun cracks and flakes on a slightly steeper face. Step left to belay.

P3) 5.3, 30 m, Climb the easy ridge with a few bolts and fixed threads. Belay below a steeper wall.

P4) 5.8-, 20 m, Follow either bolt line up the steeper face. The left line is the original and has an undercling crux between the 1st and second bolts. The right line is slightly more sustained and rejoins the left line halfway up the face.

P4.5) abseil from the pillar off to the right and walk ~20 m up the slope and slightly left to a slab with a bolt at its base.

P5) 5.7, 20 m, Climb a blunt arete on the slab which is fun and sustained, with many cracks to choose from. This pitch finishes at the top of a ridge facing the Breche du Brevent and Brevent Crags.

P5.5) Scramble down to the road and walk ~80 m down the road to a large, sharp boulder on the right.

P6 and P7) 5.6, 55 m total, Climb the arete on its slabby left-hand side to gain the top of the ridge. There is a bolted anchor midway if you want to split it into two pitches. From the top you are ~5 minutes walk from the cable car station.

Location

Walk down the fire road from the Brevent cable car station for ~20 minutes. Leave the road after 2 switchbacks (I think) after passing the Brevent Crags. The route climbs a less prominent pinnacle up the slope from the larger Crakoukass pinnacle.

Protection

Entirely bolted with 2-bolt or otherwise fixed anchors. A small selection of cams and slings might be useful to pass other parties or to provide extra security.

Photos

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