Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tommy Bairstow
Page Views: 158 total · 61/month
Shared By: Tommy Bairstow on Jun 30, 2019
Admins: Aron Quiter, Kyle Bishop, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: No overnight camping on PG&E property Details

Description

P1. 5.9 (maybe 5.8). 70 feet. Follow 8 bolts up a slab to a mussy hook anchor. More of an approach pitch then a stand alone outing, but still fun. Stay close to the bolt line otherwise you'll find yourself in the uber munge. A bit dirty still but should clean up nicely.

P2. 60ish feet. About 8 feet to the right of the anchor, look for a clean, left leaning slightly overhanging hand crack. Climb that crack! Nice hand jams peter out as the crack widens. Pull yourself up and over the lip into nice jams and face holds above. Mussy hook anchor at the top.

Note: A 70 meter rope will get you to the base from the top of pitch 2, though as always, watch your rope ends! If you're using a 60m, I definitely recommend using the intermediate anchor at the top of pitch 1 to rappel. It's possible to link both pitches but be sure to bring long runners. 

Location

This route is the currently the far most right climb at The Moon/Negativity. Begins about 20 feet right of the start of Dark star. Follow the comfortable ledge at the base of this area until it ends at the cliff face, where you'll find the obvious bolt line. 

Protection

P1. 8 bolts, Mussy hook anchor.
P2. Single rack to 3", but it's nice to have doubles in .75"-2" if you want to sew it up

Photos