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Lunar Wave

5.10c, Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
FA: Tommy Bairstow
California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Bowman/Emeralds > Emeralds > Benches > Moon
Access Issue: No overnight camping on PG&E property Details

Description

P1. 5.9 (maybe 5.8). 70 feet. Follow 8 bolts up a slab to a mussy hook anchor. More of an approach pitch then a stand alone outing, but still fun. Stay close to the bolt line otherwise you'll find yourself in the uber munge. A bit dirty still but should clean up nicely.

P2. 60ish feet. About 8 feet to the right of the anchor, look for a clean, left leaning slightly overhanging hand crack. Climb that crack! Nice hand jams peter out as the crack widens. Pull yourself up and over the lip into nice jams and face holds above. Mussy hook anchor at the top.

Note: A 70 meter rope will get you to the base from the top of pitch 2, though as always, watch your rope ends! If you're using a 60m, I definitely recommend using the intermediate anchor at the top of pitch 1 to rappel. It's possible to link both pitches but be sure to bring long runners. 

Location

This route is the currently the far most right climb at The Moon/Negativity. Begins about 20 feet right of the start of Dark star. Follow the comfortable ledge at the base of this area until it ends at the cliff face, where you'll find the obvious bolt line. 

Protection

P1. 8 bolts, Mussy hook anchor.
P2. Single rack to 3", but it's nice to have doubles in .75"-2" if you want to sew it up

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lunar Wave is the red line. P1 is bolted, P2 is traditional, follow the hand crack directly to the right of the red line.
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Lunar Rave is the blue line. Shares P1 (bolted) with Lunar Wave, then go left (P2) and follow the blue line (bolted).
[Hide Photo] Lunar Wave is the red line. P1 is bolted, P2 is traditional, follow the hand crack directly to the right of the red line. Lunar Rave is the blue line. Shares P1 (bolted) with Lunar Wave, then go l…
Ky Bish starting up P2
[Hide Photo] Ky Bish starting up P2
Angie following. She followed the hardest cracks in Yosemite BITD! No hangdogging to remove pro too.
[Hide Photo] Angie following. She followed the hardest cracks in Yosemite BITD! No hangdogging to remove pro too.
By Yosemite standards probably 10-. If not for the abundance of face holds it would be harder.
[Hide Photo] By Yosemite standards probably 10-. If not for the abundance of face holds it would be harder.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
[Hide Comment] Sorry Tommy, You're right, I'm old and get confused easily. Aug 1, 2019
Bill Price
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Fun trad route, but both pitches were a little dirty still. Should clean up with more ascents. Crack takes cams well. Oct 11, 2019